DYEING. 



Second 

 operation. 

 Bath with 

 dung. 



Processes of water for 100 pounds of cotton. The cotton is com- 

 D veins. p] e t e ly scoured when it sinks of itself in the caldron ; 

 "*~Y"^ it is then taken out, and washed knot by knot in the 

 river, wrung, and hung out to dry. 



" A hundred pounds of Alicant soda (luirilla) in 

 coarse powder are put into a tub, with a hole near its 

 bottom to allow the water to run into another tub placed 

 under it ; seventy-five gallons of lixivial water are pour- 

 ed on the soda in the upper tub ; when the water which 

 has run into the lower one marks two degrees of the 

 soap-makers areometer, it is proper for the bath with 

 dung, which is made in the following manner : 



" Twenty-five or thirty pounds of sheeps dung are 

 mixed with the above ley in a large earthen vessel, and 

 stirred with a wooden pestle, then passed through a 

 hair sieve placed over the vat in which the bath is to 

 be prepared. Twelve pounds and a half of Provence 

 oil are then poured into the vat, and kept constantly 

 stirring with a rake, that it may be perfectly mixed 

 with the ley and the dung ; the soda ley is poured upon 

 it, nine buckets of water (each equal to four gallons) 

 are commonly required tor a hundred pound-; of cotton. 

 The bath bting thus prepared, is in a proper state to 

 receive the cotton. For this purpose, some of the bath 

 is taken in a wooden bowl, and poured into an earthen 

 pan set in brick work, at a proper height for working. 

 A hank of cotton is taken and well wrought with the 

 hands ; it is frequently taken up and turned in the pan, 

 and then hung upon a wooden peg fixed to the wall ; 

 it is slightly wrung out, and thrown upon a table : and 

 the same operation is repeated with each hank. The 

 table upon which the cotton is thrown ought to be 

 raised eight or ten inches from the ground. A work- 

 man takes a hank in each hand, and strikes on the table 

 to stretch the threads ; he turns it three times, and then 

 makes a small twist to form a head for the hank, and 

 lays it upon the table. Not more than three hanks 

 sh'ould be placed one upon another, as too great weight 

 would squeeze the bath cut of the under hanks. The 

 cotton ought to remain ten or twelve hours on the table, 

 and then l>e hung out to dry. 



" Ley of sorla also at two degrees of the areometer is 

 taken ; and after the vat in which the bath with dung 

 was made has been well cleaned, twelve pounds and a 

 half of olive oil are put into it, and the ley of soda ad- 

 ded, while it is kept constantly stirred with a rake, in 

 order to mix the oil completely. This bath ought to 

 resemble thick milk ; and that it may be good, it is 

 necessary that the oil should not rise to the surface. 

 Some of this bath is then put into the pan, and the cot- 

 ton dipped hank by hank, as in the former operation. 

 It is then thrown on the table and beat upon it ; it is 

 left there till the next day, and then hung out to dry. 

 For this bath about eight buckets of ley are required. 



" Fresh soda is added to the remainder of that first 

 put into the tub, if the water poured upon it has not 

 attained three degrees. For this operation, eight buckets 

 of ley are poured into the vat upon the remains of the 

 white bath, and the cotton is passed through it in the 

 same manner as before. 



" The cotton is passed through a ley of soda at four 

 degrees, the working being conducted as already de- 

 scribed. 



" The cotton is passed through a ley of soda at five 

 degrees. 



" The cotton is passed through a ley of soda at six 

 degrees, the same precautions being observed, and then 



Filth opera- 

 tion. 

 Stand salt. 



Sixth 

 operation. 

 Third salt. 



carried out to be dried on very small poles ; when dry, Processes t 

 it is taken to the river to be washed in the following ^J^"^, 

 manner : 



" The cotton must be first soaked in the water, then Eighth 

 taken out and put upon the horse to drain. Water is re- operation. 

 peatedly thrown on it that it may be well soaked, and an 

 hour after it is washed knot by knot, to free it completely 

 from the oil, which is absolutely necessary to its taking 

 the galling well. It is then wrung with the jack and 

 pin, and stretched upon the poles to dry. The cotton, 

 when thus washed, ought to be of a beautiful white. 



" For the galling, we must choose good galls in sorts,* Ninth 

 and having bruised them, put for each hundred pounds operation. 

 of cotton twelve pounds and a half into a copper, and GaUin S- 

 boil them in six buckets of clear river water. Three 

 hours are generally required to boil them sufficiently, 

 and we perceive that this is accomplished when they 

 break readily between the fingers. Three buckets of 

 cold water are then added, and the whole passed through 

 a very dose hair sieve, squeezing with the hand what 

 has not passed through, in order to separate all the re- 

 sinous particles. When the water has settled and be- 

 come clear, the galling is performed in the following- 

 manner. Nine or ten quarts of the galling is poured 

 into an earthen pan set in the wall at a height conveni- 

 ent for working, and the cotton is dipped into it by 

 separate hanks, working it well with the hands. It is 

 then wrung with the pin, and carried out to be dried 

 as fast as it is dipped ; a precaution essentially necessary 

 to prevent the cotton from growing black. When the 

 cotton is thoroughly dried, we proceed to the alumiiig, 

 in the following manner: 



" The copper in which the decoction of galls was Tenth 

 made being well cleaned, eight buckets of river water, operation. 

 and eighteen pounds of Roman alum, are put into it, ^"""""B- 

 and the alum dissolved without boiling. When the 

 solution is complete, half a bucket of soda ley at four 

 degrees of the areometer is added, and the cotton then 

 wrought in it hank by hank, as in the galling. It is 

 then spread out to dry, and afterwards washed from 

 the alum, as follows : 



" Having left the cotton to soak and drain for an EIev enth 



hour upon the horse, each hank i< washed separately P era V n ' 

 . . . . . . J \\ ashinc 



three times, wrung with a pin, and carried to the tenter f rom tne 



ground. alum. 



" This operation consists in a repetition of the for- Twelfth 

 mer ones. A white bath is prepared, similar to that operation. 

 described in the third operation ; twelve pounds and a 

 half of good Provence oil are put into a vat ; and eight 

 buckets of ley, at two degrees of the soapmaker's are- 

 ometer, added to it ; and the bath being well stirred, 

 the cotton is dipped in the manner described in the 

 operation referred to. 



" The cotton, after being well dried, is dipped in a Thirteenth 

 ley at three degrees. "P" 00 ' 



" After the cotton has been well dried, it is dipt in a Fourteenth 

 ley at four degrees. operation. 



" When the cotton is again dry, it is dipped in a ley Fifteenth 

 at five degrees, and this concludes the dips After be- 

 ing dried, it is washed, galled, and alumed, with the 

 same proportions, and attention to the same circum- 

 stances as in the ninth, tenth, and eleventh operation-. 

 The cotton has now received all the preparations ne- 

 cessary for taking the dye, and ought to be of the colour 

 of the bark of a tree. A very essential circumstance to 

 be attended to, is, never to dip the cotton until it is 

 perfectly dry, otherwise we run the risk of rendering 



BUck and white galls in equal quaiUitie*. 



J 



