'J 5 1 



DYEING. 



S:\tnteenth 

 ing. 



M. PapU- 

 lon's pro- 

 cess, with 

 remarks by 

 Or Ban- 

 croft. 



Step 1st. or 



Clr.'iming 

 pennon. 



the colour spotted. When the cotton has hung out 

 upon the |Mili-s. it must be frequently shaken uixl turned, 

 to nuke it dry uniformly. 



\ copper of an oblong square fonn is generally em- 

 !. vfckfa ought to be capable of holding about 

 one hundred gallons, in which quantity twenty-five 

 pounds ut' i-otttui may he dved :it omv. The process 

 tor dyeing is begun by filling the copper with water, 

 within four or five inches of the brim, and (muring on 

 u |i.:il-fn!l of bullock's bltiod, or what is still bc'.i. . 

 WaM it i in be procured, sheep's blood, (this is equal to 

 about five gallons,) and then adding the li/ary (Smyr- 

 na Madder.) When we wi-h to obtain a fine bright co- 

 lour, which penetrates, and has a good body, we com- 

 monly mix several kinds of lizary together, as one pound 

 and a half of lizary of IVovence, with half a pound of 

 lirary of Cyprus ; or if these cannot be had, a pound 

 of that of Provence, with as much of the lixarv from 

 Tripoli or Smyrna, allowing always tv.<> pounds tor one 

 of cotton. When the tizary is in the copper, it is stirred 

 with the rake, to break the clods or lumps, and when 

 the bath is warm, the cotton is put in on skain sticks, 

 two hanks commonly on each. Care must be taken to 

 immerse it properly, and to turn the cotton on the skain 

 stick-v, by means of a pointed stick passed along them 

 within the hanks. This process is continued for an 

 hour ; and when the copper begins to boil, the cotton 

 is taken uti' the skain-sticks, and immersed in it, eacli 

 hank being suspended, by means of a cord passed 

 through it, to sticks supported over the copper. It is 

 now taken out, and washed knot by knot at the river, 

 wrung with the pin, and dried. 



" Soda ley at two degrees is poured into the copper 

 used for scouring, which should hold a hundred and 

 fifty gallons of water, and it is then filled within ten or 

 twelve inches of the brim ; four or five pounds of olive 

 oil are then added, and six pounds of white Marseilles 

 soap cut very small : it is kept stirring until the soap is 

 dissolved, and when the copper begins to boil, the cot- 

 ton is put in, a cord being previously passed through it, 

 to prevent its being entangled. The copper is then co- 

 vered up, and stopped with rags, loaded and made to 

 boil gently for four or five hours : the cover being now 

 taken off, the cotton should appear finished, and of a 

 beautiful red. The cotton must not be taken out of the 

 copper for ten or twelve hours, because it improves in 

 the bath, and acquires a much greater degree of bright- 

 ness. It must be well washed, knot by knot, and t he- 

 operation is complete." See Berthollet, Eltm. (if Dyeing. 



302. The following process, which has a consider- 

 able resemblance to the one we have just described, was 

 long practised with great success at Glasgow, by M. 

 Pierre. Jacques Papillon, a native of France, and com- 

 municated by him for an adequate reward to the Com- 

 missioners and Trustees for Manufactures in Scotland. 

 By agreement, the process was kept a secret during a 

 term of years, for the benefit of M. Papillon ; that term 

 having expired, the process was laid before the public 

 in 1803. In describing the did'erent steps of which it 



ts, we shall avail ourselves of same very judicious 

 observations of T)r Bancroft, intended principally, he 

 remarks, to explain its difference, where any occurs, 

 with the correspondent operations generally practised 

 at Rou<-n, as they have been lately published by M. 

 Vitalis. 



303. For lOOlbs. of cotton, take lOOlbs. of Alicant 

 barilla, '20 Ibs. of pearl ashes, 100 Ihs. of quicklime; 

 mix the barilla with soft water in a deep tub, having a 

 small hole near its bottom, which is to be stopped at 



4 



first with n (>eg, but covered within by a cloth .support- 

 ed by two bricks, in order that U .,i\ ! < iii>i- 



iVoiu either running through the hole, or chok- S " ^~" 

 ing it while the ley filters through it. I'nder tl-is tub 

 another is to lie placed to receive the le\ ; and pun- 

 water is to lie repeatedly passed through the first tub, 

 to form leys of different strength, winch are to lie kept 

 separate until their strength bus been examined. The 

 strongest required for use must swim or float an < 

 and is called the ley of -ix degrees of the French 



The weaker are afterwards brought to this 

 strength, by passing them through fresh barilla ; but a 

 certain quantity of the weak, which is to mark two dc- 

 grci-sof the i'l-truim-nt, must belt-served for dissolving 

 the oil. the gum, and the salt, which are used in sub- 

 sequent parts of the process. The ley of two di i 

 is called the weak barilla liquor, the oilier is called the 

 strong. 



i >i>solve the pearl ashes in ten pails (containing foul- 

 gallons each) of soft water, and the lime in fourteen 

 (jails. 



Let all the liquors stand until they become quite 

 clear, and then mix ten pails of each. 



Boil the cotton in the mixture five hours, then waab 

 it in running water, and then dry it. 



Remark by Dr Bancroft: " At Houcn twocour 

 ojxTations are practised to produce the Turkey red ; 

 called the grey course, and the other the yellow 

 course. In the former, the cotton, after being aiumed, 

 receives no more oil, but goes to the dyeing vessel, re- 

 taining the grey colour, which naturally results from its 

 being impregnated with alum and galls in combination. 

 But in the yellow course, the cotton, after being aiumed, 

 is again immersed in the oleaginous mixtures or st< 

 to be mentioned hereafter, by which it acquires a yel- 

 low colour. The grey course may consist either of fifteen 

 sleeps, or of nineteen, and the yellow of twenty. The 

 first of these courses has most similitude to that of M. 

 Papillon; and it is this which we shall principally com- 

 pare with the latter, occasionally noticing any peculi- 

 arity in the yellow course. 



" At Houen, the first or cleansing operation is per- 

 formed with a very weak ley of soda of only one degree 

 of the areometer, employing 150 gallons to 1 CO Ibs. of 

 cotton, which is to be boiled therein six hours, then 

 drained, well rinsed in running water, and afterwards 

 dried. This operation is intended to free tile cottou 

 from all impure or extraneous matter ; but not to pro- 

 duce effects like those of bleaching, by exposure upon 

 the grass, which, until lately, it was liclieved would 

 lessen the durability of die colours to be subsequently 

 dyed." 



Take a sufficient quantity (ten pails) of the strong step 24 

 barilla water in a tub, and dissolve or dilute in it two Bain bit, or 

 pails full of sheep's dung; then pour into it two quart t^X 6tC( -'P- 

 bottles of oil of vitriol, one pound of gum arabic, and 

 one pound of sal ammoniac, both previously dissolved 

 in a sullicient quantity of weak barilla water ; and lastly, 

 twenty-five pounds of olive oil, which has been previ- 

 ously dissolved, or well mixed with two pails of the 

 weak barilla water. 



The materials of this steep being mixed, tramp or 

 tread down the cotton therein, until it is well soaked : 

 Let it steep twenty-four hours, then wring it hard, mid 

 dry it. 



Steep it again twenty-four hours, and again wring 

 and dry it. 



Steep it a third time twenty-four hours, after which 

 wring and dry it ; and lastly, wash it well, and dry it. 



