256 



J) Y E I NG. 



Step 8th. 

 The fixing 



Step 9th. 

 Uriphtcn- 



and move and tuni it constantly one Lour, during 

 \\hii-h gradually increase the heat, o that the liquor 

 may begin to boil at the end of the hour. Then sink 

 the cotton, and boil it gently one hour longer. And 

 lastly, wash and dry it. Take out M> much of tin- boil- 

 ing liquor as will leave the remainder only milk warm, 

 when mixed with as much fresh water as may be re- 

 quired to fill the copper again, and then proceid ti> 

 make up n dyeing liquor, as before, for the next ten 

 pounds of cotton ; and so proceed in succession with 

 the whole." 



Remark by Dr Bancroft " At Rouen the cotton is 

 dyed in parcels of twenty-five pounds each : and the 

 dyeing vef-rl N of a quadrangular form, containing 

 about I (X) gallons of liquor. One quart of ox blood is 

 employed lor each pound of cotton, with two pounds of 

 Provence madder, or one pound of the latter, with one 

 pound of Smyrna madder. Some persons, however, 

 think it best to effect the dyeing by two separate opera- 

 tions, employing half of the before-mentioned pro- 

 portion of madder for one dyeing, and half for the other ; 

 but always taking care not to dry the cotton between 

 the first and second dyeings. There are, moreover, 

 some at Rouen who give cotton another alum steep be- 

 tween these dyeing operations, employing for that pur- 

 pose halt' as much alum as was used for the first steep ; 

 and afterwards washing, &c. as usual. 



" Mix equal parts of the grey steep liquor, and of 

 the white steep liquor, taking five or six pails of each ; 

 tread down the cotton into this mixture, and let it steep 

 six hours, then wring it moderately and equally, and 

 dry it without washing. 



" Ten pounds of white soap must be dissolved care- 

 fully and completely, in sixteen or eighteen pails of 

 warm water ; because if any little bits of the soap re- 

 main undissolved, they will make spots on the cotton. 

 Add to this four pails of strong barilla water, and 

 ytir it well. Sink the cotton in this liquor, keeping it 

 clown with cross sticks, and cover it up ; boil it gently 

 two hours, when, being washed and dried, it will be 

 finished. 



Remark by Dr Bancroft. " This constitutes the four- 

 teenth operation in the first set of grey courses at Rouen; 

 where, after having macerated the cotton with the sikiou, 

 they boil it five or six hours with six or eight pounds 

 of white soap, previously dissolved in one hundred and 

 forty-five gallons of water, and in a vessel covered at 

 the top, so as to leave only a very small opening for the 

 necessary escape of the steam, which might otherwise 

 occasion an explosion. The effect of this ebullition with 

 soap, is to dissolve and separate from the cotton all the 

 yellowish brown part of the madder colour which may 

 have been applied to it in the dyeing operation ; and 

 by this separation to change the colour from the dull 

 brownish red, which it would otherwise retain, to a 

 bright lively colour, nearly equal to that of the finest 

 cochineal scarlet. It is only by the singular degree of 

 fixity which the pure red part of the madder acquires, 

 in consequence of the operations just described, that 

 this beautiful red can be obtained ; for though the reds 

 given from madder in calico-printing are sufficiently 

 durable for all common uses, they are not fixed suffi- 

 ciently to bear, without injury, that extent of boil in <; 

 with soap, which is necessary to separate the yellowish 

 brown part of the colour, and produce the pure \ h id 

 red, which results from the operations under consider- 

 ation. Such, indeed, is the stability of the Turkey 

 red, when well dyed, that some of the persons employ- 

 ed in, dyeing it lave assured me, that their colours 



would sustain boiling with soap for the space of thirty - 

 six hour*, without injury. 



In addition to the steps or operation- pretended by 

 M. 1'apillon, they cn.plov another at Koucn, tailed ru- 

 tagf, which i- intended to make the red incline more 

 to the rose colour, and at the -ame time to iiu-rease its 

 vivacity. For this operation, for the former quantity 

 of cotton, (100 Ibs.), they dissolve in one hundred 

 and forty-dvc gallons of water, sixteen or eighteen 

 pounds of white soap; and as soon as the liquor begin* 

 to boil, they add to it from u pound and a half to t 

 pounds of the crystallized muriate of tin, previously 

 di-.-ol\ed in two quarts of water, and mixed with eight 

 ounces of single aquafortis ; and having equally di-- 

 per-ed this mixture through the boiling solution of soap, 

 by stirring, &c. the cotton is put into it, and boiled 

 with the same precautions as in the brightening o]>cr.i- 

 tion, until the desired effect has been obtained, which 

 is to be discovered by frequent examinations." See 

 Phil, of Perm. Col. vol. ii. p 'ML 



.'>01. Pallas has given a detailed account of the me- 

 thod of dyeing the Turkey red, as it is practised by the 

 Armenians, who had been forced, by the troubles in 

 Persia, to take up their residence in Astracan. The li- 

 mits which we have prescribed to ourselves, do not per- 

 mit us to give the process in the author's own words ,- 

 but the following brief outline will convey some infor- 

 mation respecting it. The cotton to be dyed, after be- 

 ing well washed in running water, and dried, is alter- 

 nately impregnated with //'.v// oil, and exposed to the at- 

 mosphere for the space of seven days ; the impregnation 

 being performed during the night, and the dyeing du- 

 ring the day. They have ascertained, that other oils do 

 not succeed; and, indeed, they do not use the oil of all 

 fish indiscriminately, but choose that which becomes 

 milky upon being mixed with an alkaline solution. Af- 

 ter these repeated impregnations and exsiccations, they 

 wash the cotton and dry it ; they then give it an astrin- 

 gent bath, to which a little alum is added ; they dye it in 

 a madder bath, with which calves blood has been mixed ; 

 and, finally, they digest it in a solution of soda. It ap- 

 pears, that much of the success of the process depends 

 upon the alkaline bath : The cotton being thrown into 

 it, the bath is made to boil over a steady fire till the co- 

 lour acquires the proper tint. The workman watches 

 with the utmost care ibr the moment when it is neces- 

 sary to take out the stuff, and he will rather burn his 

 hand than miss that opportunity. 



.'iO;. Notwithstanding the numerous attempts which 

 have been made to improve the Turkey red, and to as- 

 certain the circumstances upon which its beauty and 

 durability depend, the theory of the processes is still 

 involved in much obscurity. The object of impregna- 

 ting the cotton with oil, is doubtless to afford a ground 

 to the stuff, by which its attraction 1'or the colouring 

 matter is to be increased ; and yet the methods usually 

 employed for giving this impregnation, do not seem 

 the most effectual for the purpose. It order that the 

 soda, which is mixed with the oil, may produce suita- 

 ble effects, it must be used, it is said, in the caustic 

 state, otherwise their combination wdl be imperfect, 

 and the oil will be applied unequally to the cotton. 

 Now, it is well known, that in tins intimate state of 

 union, a caustic alkali and oil form soap; and \m\\ the 

 oil thus applied should attach itself to the stuff', we 

 confess we cannot conceive; it is added, indeed, that 

 the oil should be in excess, rather than in a state of ab- 

 solute saturation with the soda, as it would otherwise 

 abandon the cotton in the subsequent wasliings or riiu 



I'l.K. >l-v v f 



Process ed 

 by the Ar- 

 menian tW 



Turkey red. 



Theory of 

 the piwt* 

 unknown. 



