268 



DYEING. 



Fineiad 

 bin violet*. 

 ... 



- MM. '. 



tajfe 



Light 



:..,.. 



II. Processttfor Dyeing SUlt, rioltt, Purple, <$r. 



$95. In dyeing silk, two kinds of violets arc distin- 

 guished, the /Cne and the false. To produce the fine vio- 

 !:, tin- silk is first pMM through a bath of cochineal, 

 and afterwards dipped in the indigo vat. More or less 

 cochineal is used, according to the depth of the desired 

 shade ; but neither tartar nor solution of tin form parts 

 "f the mordant, which consists of alum only. The usual 

 proportion of cochineal for a fine violet is two ounces for 

 e;u'h |Miuiul of silk. When the silk is dyed, it is wash- 

 ed at the river, and beetled twice. It is then dipped in 

 nn indigo vat, of greater or less strength, according to 

 the depth we wish to give the violet It is then wanted, 

 and carefully dried. To give greater beauty nnd strength 

 to the colour, it is commonly passed through the archil 

 bad) ; a practice which, as Berthollet observes, though 

 frequently abused, is indispcnsible for the light shades, 

 the colour of which would otherwise be too dull. 



.S96. When the silk is intended to be dyed purple, a 

 very light blue shade must be given to it, after receiving 

 the cochineal dye. The deepest shades must be dipped 

 in a very weak vat, and those which arc lighter, in cold 

 water, with which a little of the liquor of the vat has been 

 mixed. The light shades of this colour, such as gilly- 

 flower, griJeliii, peach-blossom, &c. are obtained by re- 

 ducing the proportion of cochineal. 

 ..let. 397. The false violets are given to silk in various 

 ways, but the most beautiful are usually communicated 

 by archil, the strength of the bath being adapted to the 

 colour we wish to produce. After being scoured and 

 beetled at the river, the silk is introduced into the bath, 

 and turned in it on skain sticks. When the colour is 

 supposed to have sufficiently taken, a pattern is tried in 

 the indigo vat, to ascertain if it Requires the desired 

 shade of violet ; and after the shade is found to be of 

 the proper depth, the silk is beetled at the river, and 

 dipped in the vat, in the same manner as for the fine 

 violets. 



3J)8. A violet is given to silk, by dipping it in wa- 

 ter containing a solution of verdigrise, without aluming 

 it, and then giving it a bath of logwood. The blue 

 colour which it assumes in the bath is changed to violet, 

 either by the addition of alum while it remains there, or 

 by passing it, after being taken out, through a weaker or 

 stronger solution of that substance. This violet possess- 

 es neither durability nor beauty. A better violet may 

 be communicated, by passing alumed silk first through a 

 bath of Brazil wood, and again, after it has been wash- 

 ed at the river, through a bath of archil. 



III. Processes for Dyeing Cotton or Linen, Violet, Purple, 



'j!hcr pro- 



;>roce for 

 \tolet. 



hour, and then (aken out and wrung. The dycin; is 

 completed by introducing the cotton into a fresh bath of of '' 

 logwood, to which two drachms of alum are added, anil "" ""^~ 

 retaining till it acquires the desired shade. 



400. Violets and purples, extremely durable, may be DurW* 

 communicated to cotton prepared and : r the vloll * "* 

 Turkey red, with this difference, that to the'alum-steep nr 1>urp **" 

 mordant, a greater or less portion of sulphate of iron is 



added, according as the colour is wished to incline more 

 or less to a dark shade. Cotton which has received a 

 light indigo blue, may also be rendered purple or violet, 

 by impregnating it with the aluminous basis, and dyeing 

 it with madder. 



401. A good and durable violet may also be applied Another 

 to cotton or thread by the following process : The cot- 



ton to be dyed is macerated in a decoction of galls, (em- 

 ploying one pound of the latter to six pounds of the 

 former,) then dried, and afterwards soaked in a satura- 

 ted solution of equal parts of alum and sulphate of iion ; 

 it is then rinsed, dried, and afterwards dyed with its 

 weight of madder. The colour, which is durable, may 

 be made to incline more or less to the purple or violet, 

 by varying the proportions of alum and sulphate of iron. 

 An acetate or pyrolignite of iron may be advantageously 

 substituted for the sulphate. 



CLASS III. Processes for Dyeing Mixtures of Red and 

 Yellow. 



402. An infinite variety of shades may be obtained Shades 

 from the combination of red and yellow, by altering the from D '* 

 proportions of the ingredients which afford these colours, ^j' s v ['{Jjjj 

 and varying the mordants employed in the dye bath. 

 Pcerner also describes a great number of varieties of the 



same kind, which he produced by using different yellow 

 dyes, and by employing in the preparation of the stuff 

 or in the bath, tartar, alum, sulphate of zinc, or sulphate 

 of copper. The principal colour resulting from this com- 

 bination is orange. 



II. Processes for Dyeing Wool, Orange, $-c. 



403. By boiling fustic in a scarlet bath, and heighten- Oranpe and 

 ing it by a small portion of creatn of tartar and the solu- other 

 tion of tin, we may produce successively a pomegranate, 

 orange, a jonquille, &c. Quercitron may be substituted 



for fustic, and both must be used in proportion to the 

 shade required. The addition of a little madder will pro- 

 duce a gold colour. If, in place of bright yellows, we 

 employ colouring matters of a brownish cast, such as the 

 greater number of astringents, we shall obtain less bril- 

 liant but more solid colours : thus hazel roots, walnut 

 peels, sumach, &c. yield tobacco, chesnut, musk colours, 



399. Cotton is usually dyed violet, by first giving it 

 a blue ground in the vat, suited to the proposed deep- 

 ness of shade, and then drying it. After being left for 

 twelve or fifteen hours in a gall bath, prepared in the 

 proportion of three ounces of galls to a pound of the 

 tuff, it is again wrung and dried. It is next passed 

 through a decoction of logwood, from which, after being 

 well soaked, it is taken out, when two drachms of alum 

 and one drachm of dissolved verdigrise for every pound of 

 cotton, are added to the bath. It is then redipped on 

 the skain sticks, and turned for a full quarter of an hour, 

 after which it is taken out and aired. This being done, 

 it is cnce more immersed in the bath for a quarter of an 



II. Processes for Dyeing Silk, Orange, SfC. 

 404. In describing the processes for dyeing silk yel- Orange tat 

 low, we noticed various methods of giving it an orange 

 cast. Marroncs, cinnamons, and all the intermediate 

 shades, are communicated to silk by various proportions 

 of logwood, Brazil wood, and fustic. The silk having 

 been scoured as usual, and alumed, is put into a bath 

 prepared by mixing decoctions of these woods, accord- 

 ing to the desired shade, but causing the fustic to predo- 

 minate. The silk is turned in the bath in the usual way, 

 and afterwards introduced into a fresh bath of the same 





