242 BAY OF CHALEUR. 



hills and other distant objects appear sharply cut and 

 distinctly defined. What a place for a painter ! People 

 will say there is sameness in Canadian scenery. I can- 

 not see it ; with the play of light and shade on the 

 hills, the gorgeous autumn colours, and the ever-varying 

 reflections on the marvellous water ; but if there is, it is a 

 sameness that I for one never tire of. 



Fifteen miles above Dalhousie we come to Campbelton, 

 a small town at the head of the navigation of the Kesti- 

 gouche. Close in its vicinity is the " sugar-loaf," a curious 

 cone, which rises precipitously from the level bank of the 

 river to a height of 1000 feet. To ascend it is a gym- 

 nastic feat of no mean order; the summit once gained, 

 however, the view is very fine and panoramic. As we 

 pursue our journey farther up the' river, the scenery, 

 though narrowing in extent, unfolds new beauties. The 

 river is here full of islands, rich alluvial meadows, round 

 which the stream meanders in a hundred channels. Here 

 the cultivated banks and comfortable homesteads show off 

 to advantage against the sloping background of forest. 

 Not only is the intervale land good here, but the upland 

 also is of the finest quality, and grows better wheat than 

 most other parts of Lower Canada. Farming, however, is 

 not properly attended to in this country ; the settler lets it 

 take its turn with fishing, lumbering, and other occupa- 

 tions. 



If there is any fault to be found with the trout fishing 

 in the Bay of Chaleur, it is that it is too good. The 

 angler occasionally suffers from a glut of fish. The trout, 

 after spawning in the fall, run down with the salmon, but, 

 unlike the salmon, they remain in the tideway all winter, 



