97 



PATAGONIA. 



PATAGONIA. 



68 



increase in depth, until we reach the A neon Sin Salida and the Jerome 

 Channel, which extend across the whole mountain region. 



But the open sea of the Pacific does not wash this rocky coast. A 

 aeries of high and rocky islands lie like a barrier in front of it, so 

 that no part of the continent, except the peninsula of Trea Monies, 

 is exposed to the ocean's swell. Some of these islands are of great 

 extent ; others are only separated from one another by narrow straits, 

 which are not visible at some distance from the open ocean, and the 

 islands accordingly appear to be a continuous high rocky shore. The 

 most northern is the island of Chiloe [Cmu], between which and the 

 continent is the Gulf of Ancud. Farther south is the Chonos Archi- 

 pelago, which occupies the space between 44 and 46' S. lat, and 

 consists of numerous islands, some of which are of considerable extent, 

 and divided by narrow straits. Then follows the peninsula of Tres 

 Monies, which is nearly isolated by a deep bay that enters the continent 

 from the north, and extends about 30 miles southward. South of the 

 peninsula is the Qulf of Penas, which contains only scattered islands; 

 but near 47 30' S. lat. is the small group of the Quaianeco Islands, 

 followed by Wellington Island or Islands, which extends from 47 50' 

 to 50 S. lat, and in some parts U CO or 70 miles wide. The long 

 strait which separates Wellington Island from the continent, and is 

 called Mesier Channel, is on an average two miles wide towards each 

 extremity ; but in the middle and for a length of about forty miles 

 it is hardly a mile wide, and in three particular places not more 

 than 400 yards wide. A broad channel, called the Qulf of Trinidad, 

 separates Wellington Island from the Archipelago of Madre de Dios ; 

 and this archipelago is separated from the continent and Hanover 

 Island by Concepcion Strait. The strait south of Hanover Island, 

 called Lord Nelson's Strait, separates it from the archipelago of Queen 

 Adelaide, an assemblage of islands which run more than 80 miles 

 north-west and south-east. MAGALBAEXS STRAIT lies between this 

 archipelago and South Desolation Island. These islands are, with- 

 out exception, high and rugged, and have a rocky shore; but the 

 mountains in none of them rUe to the snow-line, except on South 

 Desolation. 



Although the difference in geographical position between the two 

 extremes of this coast is 14 degrees, the difference in the temperature 

 is much U-ss than might be expected. On the island of Chiloe the 

 mean temperature of the winter seems to be 40, and that of the 

 spring 60*, or something more. That of Port Famine, on the Strait 

 of M g* ltl **". is about S3" in winter and 50 in summer. It would 

 therefore appear that the difference in the mean annual temperature 

 between the two extremities of the mountain region of Patagonia does 

 not exceed ten degrees of Fahrenheit, probably a smaller difference 

 than in any other country of similar extent. This phenomenon is due 

 to the gnat dampness of the atmosphere. As the prevailing winds 

 blow from the west, they bring to the land the moisture which they 

 collect in pusing over the wide expanse of the Pacific; and this 

 moisture being suddenly condensed when it comes in contact with the 

 high mountains along the shores, descends in abundant and nearly 

 continual rain. On the peninsula of Tres Montes only two or three 

 weeks in November are without rain, and farther south there is 

 hardly a day without either rain or snow and sleet, according to the 



The constant dampness of the air, though not favourable to many 

 European plants, especially to fruit-trees, maintains a vigorous vegeta- 

 tion. The forests, which cover the sides of the mountains for two- 

 thirds of their height north of 46 & lat, rival in luxuriance those of 

 the tropical regions. Stately trees, with smooth and highly coloured 

 barks, are covered with parasitical plants ; large and elegant ferns are 

 numerous, and arborescent grasses twine round the trees to the height 

 of 30 or 40 feet South of 45* a lat. vegetation is less vigorous ; but 

 even at the most southern extremity, on the Strait of Magalhaen-, the 

 coontry and hillf, from the height of 2000 feet above the sea to the 

 very verge of high- water mark, are covered with trees, mostly ever- 



raand some large enough to be used as timber, ss the evergreen 

 (Fagm fciiifcMfe), and two other species of beech. Capt King 

 saw large and woody-stemmed trees of Fuchsia and Veronica, in 

 England considered as tender plants, in full flower within a very short 

 jtJT.^w. of the base of a mountain covered two-thirds down with 

 now, and this with a temperature of 88*. 



Where the mountains border on the eastern plains, a kind of deer, 

 with short straight home, is abundant There are also pumas as far 

 south as 63* a lat, eavias, and nutrias ; seals, otters, fur-seals, and 

 sea-elephants. Fish is very plentiful, especially several smaller kinds, 

 which live in the subaqnatic forests formed by the gigantic seaweed 

 (Fuctu giyanttut of Soland-r), which covers all the rocks near the 

 open coast and in the numerous straits. Land birds are not numerous 

 but water-fowl abound, among which is the black-necked swan (Anttr 

 mfncollu) and several kinds of gene and ducks. Shell-fifth of several 

 kinds occur in the recesses of the inlets, and they constitute the prin- 

 cipal food of the inhabitants during a part of the year. On the 

 Qnaianeco Islands and the Chonos Archipelago the potato grows 

 wild : they are small and quite tattrlea*. 



Tue.plains of Patagonia, which occupy the greater portion of the 

 country, extend along the Atlantic Ocean. Though similar in aspect, 

 these plain* seem to differ in their natural capacities. Between 47" 

 and 48* 8. lat the coast forms a wide promontory, projecting near 



OIOU. UIV. VOI. IT. 



100 miles from the body of the mainland. Oil this promontory, at 

 the back of Cape Blanco, are the high lauds of Kspinosa, which rise 

 at least 4000 feet above the sea, and form an irregular range with 

 several peaked summits. On this promontory and the contiguous 

 coast, as far north as 45 S. lat and southward to 49 S. lat., the rocks 

 are porphyritic, but they seldom rise more than 300 or 400 feet above 

 the sea-level, when they stretch westward in an undulating plaiii, 

 which is covered with a light sandy soil, through which the rock pro- 

 trudes in many places. This tract is dry and parched, and has no 

 vegetation except a few tufts of grass and here and there a straggling 

 bush of berberis, or of a dwarf woody shrub, which supplies good 

 fire-wood. 



South of 49 S. lat. to the northern shores of the Strait of Magal- 

 baens, the cliffs are composed of soft marly clay, without any gravel 

 or impression of organic remains. Between the high aud low tide- 

 mark, there is a smooth beach of green clay hardened by the action of 

 the surf to the consistence of stone, which extends about a hundred 

 yards into the sea, and is succeeded by a soft green mud, over which 

 the water gradually deepens. The outer edge of the clay forms a 

 ledge parallel to the coast, upon the whole length of which the sea 

 breaks with violence. The cliffs rise rather abruptly to the height of 

 200 or 300 feet They form the descent of an elevated plain, which 

 extends several miles westward, and is then followed by an escarp- 

 ment of from 100 to 150 feet elevation, which constitutes the slope of 

 another and more elevated plain. Thus the country extends from 

 east to west in wide plains, which rise one above the other like 

 terraces. These plains are traversed by some broad and flat- bottomed 

 depressions. The soil consists of well-rounded shingle mixed with a 

 whitish earth. It is in most places without vegetation. Here and 

 there are scattered tufts of brown wiry grass, and still more rarely 

 some low thorny bushes. In the depressions the bushes are more 

 abundant, and in some places they grow up to stunted trees. Fresh 

 water U seldom found, but salinas, or salt-pools, are numerous. Marine 

 shells are frequently scattered over the plains, but they abound most 

 on the plains nearest to the sea. 



The plains are traversed from west to east by the Santa Cruz River, 

 which is supposed to rise in the Andes aud traverse their base for a 

 considerable distance from north to south : its mouth is near 50" 

 8. lat It was ascended by Captain Fit/i-oy to a distance of 140 milea 

 from the sea in a straight line, and 245 miles by the course of the 

 river. The river runs in a vast excavation below the level of the 

 neighbouring plains. East of 70 W. long, this valley varies between 

 one and five miles in width, and is bounded ou both sides by steppe-like 

 terraces. The valley U hardly more fertile than the plains whioh 

 surround it, and no bushes grow in the upper part ; even the wiry 

 half-withered grass is scanty. West of 70 W. long, the valley contracts 

 in some parts to a mile in width, and here the upper part of the 

 adjacent plains is capped with a layer of lava from 120 to 320 feet 

 thick. This part of the plain is 1400 feet above the valley, which is 

 400 fevt above the sea. The lava seems to extend to the foot of the 

 Andes, where the platform of the plains probably attains on elevation 

 of 2000 or 3000 feet The width of the lava seems to be about 100 

 miles. The layer of earth on which it rests does not differ from the 

 materials of which the plains near the Atlantic ore composed. Within 

 the lava district, between 71 and 72 W. long., the valley is from 5 to 

 15 miles wide, and there is here a flat tract of apparently good land, 

 exhibiting many swampy places covered with rich herbage; and 

 higher up is a large plain, on which shrubs, small trees, and bushes 

 are sparingly scattered ; yet parts of this plain may be called fertile 

 and woody by comparison with the tracts farther east The Santa 

 Cruz Itiver is supposed to traverse in its upper course several lakes, 

 among which is Viedma or Capar Lake, which lies between 48 and 

 49* S. lat, and is about 30 miles long and from 10 to 12 miles wide. 

 At its mouth the Santa Cruz forms an sostuary, in which the neap- 

 tides rise 18 feet and the spring-tides from 38 to 42 feet The exten- 

 sive shoals which lie near the mouth of this river are ascribed to tho 

 meeting of the rapid stream with an extraordinary tide. 



The country north of 45 S. lat. differs from the southern plains. 

 The shores are fronted by rocky reefs, extending from two to three 

 miles from high-water mark, which are dry at low tides, and in many 

 places covered with seals. The beach is rather steep, and consists of 

 shingle. Above it extends an undulating country, which at some 

 disUnee rises into hills. Though the soil here also is gravelly and 

 parched, 'and in most places exhibits a very scanty vegetation, the 

 valleys snd lower elevations are mostly covered with grass and shrubby 

 plants. In several places there are tracts covered with good grass and 

 stunted trees, especially at Camerones Bay and north of it. On the 

 banks of the Chupat River and the western shores of New Bay (Bahia 

 Nueva), there are extensive tracts covered with a fine dark soil, and 

 producing abundance of fire-wood and excellent pasturage. Wild 

 cattle abound, and are very numerous on the natural meadows which 

 extend far inland on both sides of the Chupat Itiver. The river 

 Chupat is believed to rise in the Andes, but at the distance of 20 miles 

 from its mouth it is only 100 yards wide and 6 feet deep at low-water, 

 so that only vessels drawing 7 feet can enter its mouth at high-water. 

 This river runs with a winding course through a wide and fertile 

 valley, over which an immi-unK quantity of iliil't timber is scnticrnl, 

 and large trees are found several Mndfed yiirds from its banks. 



K 



