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WIGHT, ISLE OK. 



WIGHT, ISLE OF. 



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west. This basin is circumscribed by chalk-hills, except where it is 

 broken into by the Solent Sea. 



The most extraordinary circumstance in the geological structure of 

 the Isle of Wight is the vertical or highly-inclined position of the 

 central chalk ridge, and of the plastic clay and London clay to the 

 north of it. The strata farther to the north and to the south are 

 horizontal, or nearly so, those to the south being the chalk and under- 

 lying strata, which remain undisturbed, while those to the north are 

 more recent formations deposited horizontally and unconformably on 

 the broken edges of the vertical strata. Two great sections of these 

 vertical strata are exhibited by the Culver Cliff and the cliffs of White- 

 cliff Bay on the east, and by the Needles Cliff and the cliffs of Alum 

 Bay on the west. In Whitecliff Bay the plastic clay and sands form 

 two low cliffs perfectly vertical ; rounding the cape to the south, the 

 chalk of the Culver Cliff rises to a great height at an angle of about 

 70", dipping north-north-eaat, and gradually diminishing to about 

 50. In Alum Bay a section, quite conformable, but more exten- 

 sive and distinct, ia exhibited. On the south are the lower strata of 

 chalk and chalk-marl at an angle of about 50 north-north-east, the 

 upper strata of chalk at an angle of about 70 ; farther to the north, 

 the plastic clay and its sands, perfectly vertical ; still farther to the 

 north, the London clay, also vertical; and, farthest, a bed of yellow 

 sand inclined at an angle of 60" or 70 north-north-east. The face of 

 the chalk ridge is about one-fourth of a mile wide. The upper strata 

 of chalk have alternating strata of flints in a very extraordinary state, 

 tLu pieces of flint, though closely invested with the chalk and perfectly 

 retaining their forms, being found, when taken hold of, to be shivered 

 into fragments of every size from three inches to an impalpable powder, 

 and the fractured edges of every particle being quite sharp, as if the 

 effect had been occasioned by a blow of inconceivable force. The 

 plastic clay in Alum Bay consists of clays, marls, and sands in a count- 

 lea number of layers, some extremely thin, of every variety of colour, 

 and most of them, especially when recently cut, singularly bright, like 

 the stripe* of a ribbon or the streaks of a tulip. It contains also eight 

 beds of wood-coal, or rather bitumenised wood, each about one foot 

 thick, and vertical, like the other layers. The cross fracture of the 

 coal is earthy ; it burns with difficulty, with little flame, and a sulphu- 

 reous smell. The line along which the disturbing force acted that 

 occasioned the vertical position of the strata may be traced as far as 

 Abbotabury in Dorsetshire. 



Another very curious circumstance in the stratification of the Isle of 

 Wight is that of a marine deposit between two fresh-water deposits. 

 This is distinctly shown in a natural section of Headon Hill, on the 

 north tide of Alum Bay. Hence it has been concluded that this hill 

 must have been twice the bottom of a fresh-water lake, and at an 

 intermediate period have been covered by the sea. This marine deposit 

 does not seem to be a part of any extensive formation ; it only forms 

 a bed of which the actual boundaries are unknown ; but the fresh- 

 water formations have been found to correspond very closely with the 

 calcairc yrouirr of the Paris basin. Beneath these formations in 

 Headon Hill, and extending into Alum Bay, Totland's Bay, and Coll- 

 well Bay, is a stratum of pure siliceous sand without shells, from 30 to 

 50 feet thick, which is extensively used for making the best kinds of 

 glata. The whole of the north side of the island is considered to belong 

 to these formations, 



The south side of the Me of Wight, from Dunnose to St. Catherine's, 

 -"-*- in the upper part of chalk and chalk-marl in nearly horizontal 

 strata ; the centre is green sandstone, beneath which is dark marl, and 

 then ferruginous sand. Whenever the land-springs act on this marl 

 it u formed into mad, runs out, and leaves the green-sandstone and 

 chalk without support, which then tumble down. In this manner have 

 been formed those picturesque terraces called the Undercliff. The 

 green-sandstone, so called from its being mixed with a considerable 

 quantity of green earth, is here about 70 feet thick, divided in layers 

 by other substances. The green-sandstone and dark-red ferruginous 

 rand extend from Dunnose to Yaverland. The ironsand is very thick, 

 and some of it consolidated into rock, as may be seen in the lofty 

 perpendicular Kedcliff, near Yaverland. Cliffs of the ironsand may 

 be traced from Sandown Bay on the east to Freshwater on the west, 

 except where it is concealed by the ruins of the Undercliff. It forma 

 the substratum of all the south side of the island. 



Between the central chalk rMge and the south range of downs, the 

 chalk and greensand are entirely wanting ; and in this space, which 

 constitutes the valleys of Newchurch and Kingston, the ironsand only 

 <tnl. 



Climate, Soil, and Ayricttllurc. The climate is very mild, especially 

 in the valleys and sheltered parts of the south side of the island. 

 Laurelfi, myrtles, geraniums, and various kinds of delicate evergreens, 

 flourish throughout the winter. The Undercliff has been particularly 

 recommended by the most eminent physicians as peculiarly suitable 

 for invalids, especially for persona having a tendency to or afflicted 

 with pulmonary complaints. 



North >of the chalk ridge the predominating soil is a stiff clay, 

 extremely well suited for the growth of wood, especially oak, which 

 in tl.c neighbourhood of East Cowes and St. Helen's grows down to 

 the water's edge. Elm does not bear the sea air so well as oak, but in 

 sheltered situations it grows to a large size. Ash is not common, and 

 the beech is rare. This north side of the island was formerly covered 



0100. CIV. VOL. IT. 



with forest, and though the demand for ship-building has thinned it 

 greatly, it is still well wooded. All the northern half of the island is 

 much inferior to the southern half as arable land. The soil, whether 

 clay or loam, is generally very full of flints. Much chalk is used for 

 manure, and sea-weed ia mixed with the dung in the farmyard. The 

 Boil of the whole of the south part of the island is generally a rich 

 red loam, in some parts inclining to sand, in others more stiff and 

 clayey, but everywhere extremely fertile. Timber does not grow so 

 well on the south side of the island as on the north side. A long 

 fleecy gray moss invests many of the trees. Almost all the lower 

 tracts are employed in tillage, and the produce of wheat especially is 

 greater than in almost any other part of the kingdom. Wheat, barley, 

 and oats are exported to a considerable amount annually, and all 

 kinds of pulse and green crops are cultivated. The pastures and 

 meadows are rich, but few oxen are reared. Dairies are attached to 

 most of the larger farms. The Alderney and Devonshire cows are 

 preferred. Large flocks of sheep are fed on the downs, and are in 

 repute for the fineness of their wool ; and a considerable number of 

 lambs are sent to the London markets. 



Game is abundant, especially pheasants. Fish is not taken in great 

 abundance, except shell-fish. Lobsters and crabs are very large and 

 fine on the south side of the island. Sea-fowl, choughs, puffins, razor- 

 bills, &c., resort to the cliffs in summer iu vast numbers : the Main 

 Bench is their chief place of resort. 



The Isle of Wight is much visited, as well for the grandeur and 

 extraordinary geological structure of its cliffs, as for the beautiful 

 scenery of the interior, in which, considering the smallness of tho 

 space, it is not surpassed by any other part of the kingdom. 



Division*, Totem, etc. The Isle of Wight is included in, and forms 

 a division of, the county of Southampton. [HAMPSHIRE.] The two 

 nearly equal divisions of the island formed by the Medina constitute 

 the Liberties of East Medina, which contains 14 parishes, and West 

 Medina, which contains 16 parishes. By the Reform Act of 1832 tho 

 Isle of Wight was separated from Hampshire for parliamentary 

 purposes, and returns one member to the House of Commons. 



The chief towns are NEWPORT, COWES (East and West), and HYDE, 

 which are noticed under their respective titles ; and Yarmouth, 

 Brading, and Newtown, which we notice here. 



Yarmouth is a small town ; the population of the town and pariah 

 in 1851 was only 572. It is situated at the mouth of the oostuary of 

 the western Yar, 104 miles W. from Newport. It has an excellent 

 roadstead. There is a pier for steam-boats, a town-hall and market- 

 house, an old but plain church, a Wesleyan Methodist and a Baptist 

 chapel, and National and British schools. The castle ia a small 

 fort. The market is held on Friday, and a yearly fair on July 25th. 

 Yarmouth is a corporate town, which was not affected by the Muni- 

 cipal Corporation Act. It was formerly a parliamentary borough, 

 and returned two members. 



Brading is a small town picturesquely situated near the head of 

 Brading Haven, on the slopes of two opposite hills on the south-east 

 side of the island, 7 miles E. by S. from Newport : population of the 

 parish 3046 in 1851. The market-house and town-hall is a small 

 structure. The church is large, and has some portions of Norman 

 date. The Independents have a chapel, and there arc National and 

 British schools. A sample market for corn is held on Monday. Fairs 

 are held on May 12th and November 2nd. 



Newtown, situated on the north-west side of the island, at the top of 

 the actuary of the Newtown River, 5 miles W. by N. from Newport, 

 is a decayed municipal borough, and, until the Reform Act, was a 

 parliamentary borough, which returned two members to the House of 

 Commons. It is now a very small place ; it is a chapelry in Calbourue 

 parish, containing in 1S51 only 21 houses and 86 inhabitants. At 

 high-water vessels of 500 tons can come up the aestuary of the New- 

 town River, in the creeks of which are several salterns, now little 

 used. The place was burnt by the French in the reign of Richard II. 

 The ruins of a church, and a town-hall now used as a school-room, 

 are the chief relics of the town. 



The following are the only villages which require notice ; the 

 population, when not otherwise stated, is that of the parish iu 

 1851 : 



Arreton, population 1912, is a long straggling agricultural village, 

 situated on the southern slope of Arreton Down, 3 miles S.E. from 

 Newport, and contains an old church, and an endowed parochial 

 school. Birutead, population 317, is prettily situated one mile W. 

 from Ryde. It is chiefly occupied by genteel villa-residences, several 

 of which are of quite recent erection, and some of a superior class. 

 The church ia a very elegant new building in the early English style. 

 Bonchurch, population 523, is on the south Hide of the island, adjoining 

 Ventnor on the east. The old church, of Norman date, is now dis- 

 used, a very elegant new gothic church having been lately built. A 

 handsome school-house was erected at the same time. Bonchurch is 

 a favourite residence and resort of bathing visitors, on account of its 

 mild and healthy climate and picturesque situation. Calbowue, popu- 

 lation 695, is an old-fashioned and secluded agricultural village, 5 miles 

 W. by 3. from Newport. The church, of the early English date, has 

 a curious square tower. Cariibrooke population, including 1'arklnirst 

 Prison, the House of Industry, and the Albany Barracks, 7530 is 

 pleasantly situated on thu Medina, one mile S.W. from Newport. 



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