cALico-punmxG. 



CALIro 



rtt 



goods be piddnl with iron liquor or a mixture of iron and aluminous 

 uquor. on dyeing them up in tin- madders, or other coppers, prints 

 with various dark grounds will be obtained, enlivened by white 

 figure*. The best discharges upon manganese or bronze grounds 

 oonaut of the acidulous nitromuriatic solution of tin, or salt of 

 tin. To 2 quart* of water, nude into a paste with 9 oz. of whenten 

 flour, add, when cold, from half a pound to a pound of muriate of 

 tin crystal*, according to the depth of the manganese tint to be 

 discharged. 



Compound discharges not only remove the mordant from the ground 

 wherever they are applied, but introduce a new mordant upon the 

 discharged point*, so as to lay the foundation for these points receiving 

 peculiar colours in the subsequent dyeing or padding operation*. 

 YYIu-n mordanted good* are intended for the discharge process, they 

 should not be much exposed to the air, as the mordant becomes 

 thereby of too fixed a nature to be completely removed. Nor should 

 tin y lie washed out before the piece receives the discharge ; for it 

 ought to be kept in mind, that passing the goods through either the 

 dung-bath or even chalk and water, tends to fix the mordant too firmly 

 for the perfect action of the discharge. After receiving the discharge 

 put* from the block or cylinder, the goods should be hung up in a 

 cool place ; for if suspended in a hot chamber the effect of the dis- 

 charge will be impaired. After exposure for about twenty-four hours, 

 more or less, according to the nature of the discharge, they must 

 be subjected, at the rinsing-roller machine, to water heated to about 

 II' Kali r., and mixed with a little chalk or carbonate of soda, just 

 enough to saturate the acidulous washings. They are then vv.r-ln .1 

 in ..Id water, next dunged, and finally dyed up in the proper 

 nipper. 



A violet ground, with red and white figures, may be thus produced : 

 Pad with very weak iron liquor ; dry moderately ; print on the cloth 

 with the one cylinder of the two-colour machine the red liquor 

 mordant, properly acidulated with concentrated lime juice of specific 

 gravity 1 "210, and with the other cyliuder the discharge-paste strength- 

 ened with tartaric and oxalic acids. After drying, rinse the goods 

 through chalky water ; dung, and dye in the madder-copper, and 

 1 1- ,ir them as already prescribed. 



To produce a gray ground with pink figures, the gray is first given 

 with decoction of galls and nitrate of iron, applied the one after the 

 other. The discharge paste is made by thickening 2 quarts of a 

 strong decoction of Brazil wood or peach wood with 9 oz. of flour, 

 and adding to the paste when cold 10 oz. of solution of tin, made by 

 dissolving salt (muriate) of tin in twice its weight of muriatic acid. 



To produce a chrome-yellow discharge upon a Turkey-red ground, 

 take 2 quart* of lime-juice of specific gravity I'd!) ; dissolve in it 

 2 Ibs. of tartaric acid, 2 Ibs. of nitrate of lead ; thicken with 2 II w . of 

 pipe-clay and 14 ll>. of gum, each previously pulverised. Tinge the 

 mixture with a little chromate of potash, to indicate its nature. 

 Host mordant* are faintly coloured for that purpose. After ap- 

 plying this paste as above prescribed for the white discharge, pat* 

 the good* through the bath of chloride of lime, and rinse ; then pad 

 with bi-chromate of potash, which convert* into a brilliant yellow 

 all the figures to which the discharge-paste baa been applied. For 

 a green discharge upon Turkey-red ground ; to the discharge for 

 chrome-yellow add 12 OK. of Prussian blue colour, prepared by mixing 

 5 Ibs. of Prussian blue in powder with 6 Ibs. of muriatic acid, and 

 diluting the mixture after twenty-four hours' digestion with 4 II*. 

 of water. Hi chromate of potash may be employed as a discharge. 

 After having dyed the goods in the indigo vat, they are to be padded 

 in a bath of bi-chromate of potash, containing from 1 to 14 oz. oi 

 the crystal* per quart, according to the depth of blue to be dis- 

 charged. Dry in the shade without heat, and print on the following 

 discharge : dissolve in 2 quart* of water 1 lb. of oxalic acid, 8 oz. 

 of tartaric acid, and thicken the solution with 3 Ibs. of pipi' clay 

 and 1) lb. of gum, adding to the whole 4 /.. of muriatic acid. 

 After this panto in printed on, the goixls must be rinsed through chalky 

 water, heated to 145 l-'ahr .. tli.-n washed in clear water and passed 

 through very dilute sulphuric acid. The bi-chromate acto here a 

 similar part to chloride of lime ; for wherever the roller applies the 

 acidulous paste there is an immediate white discharge, with tin- di- 

 engagement of a peculiar odour. 



I Style. Vie now pass to that style of printing in which the 

 white surface is impressed with figures in a relist paste, and is after- 

 ward* subjected to a general dye, such a* that of the indigo vat. 



The name of reost paste i* given in England, and that of rescrv . in 

 France, to the substance* which possess the property of counteracting 

 the indigo-vat dye, in the spot* to which they are applied to cloth 

 They have been divided into four clauses: those of a fatty nature, 

 those with a ban* of metallic salt* ; the coloured reserves, capable ol 

 communicating different colours in the course of their application ; am! 

 lastly, mnnbot reserves, which form the lapis lazuli style. The first 

 are used only in silk printing. 



T-. prepare a white resist for deep blue, to be applied by tin 

 cylinder : Dissolve in 3 quarts of water ij lb. of acetate of copper 

 in crystals, and 5 Ibs. of sulphate of coptwr, adding thereafter :! II,* 

 of acetate of lead ; thicken with 5 Ibs. of gum, and add to the wind. 

 1 MM. of sulphate of foul. Print on with this |i<ute ; hung up for tw. 

 days, and dip during two hour*, by repeated immersions, in the blue 



at. Finally, pass through very dilute nulpliurir arid, to clear up the 

 v bite figure*. For a . hn.nn- yi-llow resist : Dissolve in 2 quarto of 

 water 14 lb. of nitrate of lead, half a jKiuud of the acetate of cop|-r ; 

 add to the solution one pint, or i' a saturated wiluti.ni 



of subacetate of lead; thicken with 14 lb. of gum and 3 Ibs. of 

 ripe-clay. Triturate the whole together, and pas* through a sieve. 

 \fter printing mi this resist paste, the goods must be hung up 

 r or two day*, and then dipped in the proju-r Miie-vat. Steep the 

 ;oods in water for half an hour, then rinse out slightly, and pass 

 .hrough a trough containing twelve pailgful of tepid water holding half 

 a pound of soda crystals in solution. Turn over for a quarter of an 

 lour, and rinse again. Now pass the goods for half an hour tin 

 a eolation of bi-chromate of potash, containing 5 oz. for ev.-i y 

 rinse; and, in i Tiler to separate the paste, pass through muriatic acid 

 largely diluted with water, till the yellow hue comes fully out. Wash 

 and dry. 



In the lapis lazuli style, a resist for a full-bodied red U thu 

 duced : Dissolve in 2 quarts of red liquor, specific gravity 1'09, '2. oz. 

 of corrosive sublimate, and thicken with 2 Ibs. of pipe-clay and 1 ll>. 

 of gum, adding 4 oz. of olive oil. This and other coloured reserves are 

 to be printed upon the cloth with the three or four coloured calico 

 machine; four days thereafter give the pieces, at different periods of 

 ten minutes each, successive dips in the blue-vat of the desired 1m. . 

 with alternate exposure of them in the air also of ten minutes, according 

 to the blue tint in demand. Kinse in a stream of water for half on 

 hour. Into a copper nearly filled with water put two pailpful of ln.ui : 

 make the contents boil; then add cold water to lower tin- tempci at un- 

 to 180 Fahr. Enter the goods, and winch them during twenty minnt.-s 

 in the bran-liquor; remove and rinse them ; pass them next tin 

 trough containing sixteen gallons of water acidulated with three 

 of vinegar, and thereafter wash to prepare for the maddcring, whii-li is 

 to be done with the precautions already prescribed, taking care not to 

 raise the heat of the madder-copper above 190 Fahr. The lapis style 

 of goods must be finished with a bath of bran and exposure on the 

 grass, twice or oftener alternated if necessary, to bring out the lustre 

 of the colours. A little soap-water aids in the brightening. 



Though China blues differ in their principle of application, they may 

 be considered most conveniently under this head. The blue colour is 

 prepared by grinding 10 Ibs. of indigo, 3} Ibs. of orpimeut, 22 11 1.-. ! 

 copperas, with 54 gallons of water, in the common indigo mill during 

 three days. A part of this paste is to be thickened with strong gum- 

 water in successive degrees of dilution, and a part of it preserved 

 unmixed. Take three different shades of blue, the darkest 1* -in-- 

 thickened with starch, and the pale with gum, and apply them by the 

 cylinders of the three-colour machine. Hang up the pieces for two 

 days in an airy place, not too dry, and then proceed to dip them as 

 follows : three cisterns must be charged ; the first with 300 Ibs. >f 

 lime for 600 pailx of water ; the second with a solution of sulphate of 

 iron (green copperas), at a density of li' Is : the third with a solution 

 of caustic soda lye, at a density of ro.15, prepared from soda <-i 

 and quicklime with water. The pieces being stretched on the fi.nni -.-. 

 are to be dipped into the vat No. 1, and left there for ten minutes; 

 they are then withdrawn, and allowed to drip during five minutes. 

 They are now clipped in vat No. '2, fur ten minutes, and taken out to 

 drip for five minutes. After the last dip, the frame with the piece 

 upon it must be immersed in a fourth vat, charged with sulphuiic 

 acid of ,-peeilie gravity l'<i;!7. The object of this immersion is to 

 remove the oxide i>f iron deposited upon the surface of the cloth in its 

 successive passages through the lime and copperas vats. It is next 

 exposed for an hour to a stream of water, and finished by the action of 

 a tepid bath of sulphuric acid, of specific gravity T027. The blues are 

 afterwards enlivened by a feeble soap bath, at a heat of 146' I'.ln. 

 The theory of Chinese blues is one of the most beautiful dev. 1..) 

 of modem chemistry. The indigo and sulphate of iron imp: 

 at first on the doth exercise no action upon each other till the 

 cloth is plunged into the linn- water vat. Mere a |Mirtion of the 

 sulphate of iron is decomposed, and its protoxide i- n n.l 



-e the indigo, and to render it soluble in the lime-water. In 

 this dissolved state its particles can penetrate the t< 

 Line with it* filaments, and on ex]Kisurc to the air become a fixed 

 insoluble blue. On dipping the i loth into the second copperas vat a 

 new layer of oxide of iron is formed on the whole of its surface, which 

 ..\i.|. .>]*. rates only on the indigo spots, de-oxidising another portion of 

 tin- iti.li:'o, vvhii'h In-coming soluble is removed at the second dip into 

 the lime-vat. By these alternations, successive deposits of oxide of 

 iron and sulphate of lime ensue, for the separation of which from the 

 i loth the frame needs to be agitated in the lime-vat. In the copper., , 

 vat. on the contrary, the frame should be kept motionless, to fay m 

 tin .deposition of as much oxide of iron as possible upon the indigo 

 point.-. From these circumstances we may account for the accidents 

 whieh frequently befall the China blue process in unskilful hands 

 The blue* sometimes scale oil', from the paste being dried too h.nd 



r" dipped. When the temperature ot the vat 

 is too low, the blue* get a gray tint, and are always dull. 



'li fii/lf. Steam colours ; in which a mixture of niordan 

 dye extract* is applied to the cloth, and the chemical combination i. 

 I by the agency of steam. This modern ityle combine* with 

 the beauty of colour such a degree of solidity as can be obtained only 



