204 Four-in-Hand in Britain. 



" and scare him good," as the negro exhorters deem to 

 be essential for spiritual recovery. 



Our hotel was a magnificent " limited company " 

 affair. The start next morning was a sight, in the first 

 real downpour in dead earnest we had experienced. 

 The sky was dark — not one tiny ray of light to give us 

 the slightest hope of change ; the barometer low and 

 still falling. Just such a morning as might have begun 

 the flood. Clearly we were in for it ; nevertheless, at 

 the appointed hour the Gay Charioteers, arrayed in 

 their waterproofs, with the good hats and bonnets all 

 inside the coach, passed through the crowds of guests 

 who lined the hall, wondering at these mad Americans, 

 and took their accustomed seats with an alacrity that 

 showed they considered the weather " perfectly lovely." 



There are two miles of steep ascent as we leave the 

 town, and a few of us decided to walk, two of the ladies 

 among the number. Those who started upon the 

 coach were all right ; the pedestrians, however, found 

 themselves far from dry when the top was reached — 

 feet and knees were wet. By noon the rain had ceased, 

 and we stopped at a little inn, where fires were made, 

 our " reserve " clothing brought into use, and our wet 

 clothes dried, and we were as happy as larks when we 

 sat down to luncheon. Is not that a wise test which 

 Thackeray puts into the mouth of one of his waiters: 

 " Oh, I knew he was a gentleman, he was so easily 

 pleased ! " Well, our host and hostess at that little inn, 



