282 Four-in-Hand in Britain. 



tower of strength lay in the knowledge that the spark 

 which had set fire to their hearts was the Queen Dowa- 

 ger's return and her share in the day's proceedings, 

 '^rand woman, she has deserved all that was done in her 

 honor even on that day. 



A man stopped us at the junction of the roads to 

 inform us that we were expected to pass through the 

 ancient borough of Innerkeithing ; but I forgot myself 

 there. It seemed a fair chance to escape part of the 

 excitement (we had not yet begun the campaign as it 

 were) ; at all events I dodged to escape the first fire, as 

 raw troops are always said to do, and so we took the 

 direct road. When the top of the Ferry Hills was 

 reached we saw the town, all as dead as if the holy Sab- 

 bath lay upon it, without one evidence of life. How 

 beautiful is Dunfermline seen from the Ferry Hills, its 

 grand old abbey towering over all, seeming to hallow 

 the city and to lend a charm and dignity to the lowliest 

 tenement. Nor is there in all broad Scotland, nor in 

 many places elsewhere, that I know of, a more varied 

 and delightful view than that obtained from the park 

 upon a fine day. What Benares is to the Hindoo, 

 Mecca to the Mohammedan, Jerusalem to the Chris- 

 tian, all that Dunfermline is to me. 



But here I must stop. If you want to learn how 

 impulsive and enthusiastic the Scotch are when once 

 aroused, how dark and stern and true is the North, and 

 yet how fervid and overwhelming in its love when the 



