56 



at one period tbe riverbed was elevated above its present position some four hundred or live hun- 

 dred feet. The river widens out somewhat from Callville to the head of the Black Canon, flowing- 

 more regularly with less current ; its broader expanse and more regular banks assuming a quiet 

 majesty amid its wild surroundings. 



The river-bank was approached by our parties at several points along Boulder Canon, aud at 

 none of them was there appearance of any rapids ; the channel was much narrower and the course 

 of the river very winding, with the canon-walls near approached. 



Our route from the mouth of the Vegas Wash to El Dorado CaQou took us away from the view 

 of the river, the sharp, black peaks of the Black Canon range showing us, however, its position 

 and direction. 



^ Following down a series of sandy washes from the summit, that having- been reached spreads 

 out upon our horizon the sharp outstanding crests of the Black Mountains, and the valley of the 

 Colorado as far to tlie south as the Needles, the river-bank is reached some two or three miles from 

 the mouth of El Dorado Caiiou, at which point a quartz-mill was iu oi)eration. 



Here the banks, the width of the river, and the current, are quite simihir to what is found iu 

 the vicinity of Camp Mojave. 



The barge being absent down the ri\er, it was iuipossible to make a trip up the river as far as 

 Roaring Rapids, as had been intended. 



Along the banks of the Colorado, above the head of Cottonwood A'alley, as high as our first 

 point of approach, there is hardly an acre of land under cultivation ; there is no wood, with tlie 

 exception of now- and then a stunted mesquite-bush ; the banks, where they are not the solid walls 

 of precipitous cafious, are broken gravelly masses, subject to continual changes by denudation. 

 Looking for practical results as regards internal communication alone, one is saddened and disap- 

 pointed while examining this great river, so magnificent in its solitude. 



Particularly here was felt the want of some oue with the party w ho could give entire and care- 

 ful attention to the geology of the many interesting localities where bounteous nature has framed 

 the walls upon which so much is written. 



NAVIGATION OF THE COLOEAUO. 



Iu the rei)ort of the Colorado exploring expedition iu charge of Lieutenant Ives, Corps of 

 Topographical Engineers, the foot of the Black Caiion was denominated as the practical head of 

 navigation. The results of later years show that steamers can go as far as Callville, and the 

 itinerary report favors the idea that navigation may be carried as far as the foot of tbe lower main 

 or Grand Canon of the Colorado. When the local wants of the surroundings of the Colorado 

 between the above limits call for water trausi>ortation, American industry and energy will soon 

 develop the means. 



It would seem to be, however, a matter of soiue importance that at least a rude hydrographic 

 survey should be conducted, as far as circumstances will permit, iu an upward direction. Judgiug 

 from information gleaned here and there, this cannot be carried beyond a distance of about fifteen 

 miles above tiie mouth of the Grand Caiion. 



As far as Ell )orado Canon, the navigation of the river is practicable at all seasons of the year 

 with such steamers as are at present in use. The season of the year is an element which has (piite 

 an important infiuence upon the stage of the river iu the caDous, as doubtless, during the lowest 

 water, say for the month of December of each year, no matter how light the draught of the steamer, 

 it could not i)ass the bars formed in vicinity of the rapiils; while during the freshets, which occur 

 in the sjjriug of the year, upon the melting of the snows iu the mountains, which give a distance 

 of fully fifty feet between high and low water mark, navigation must needs be suspended. 



Without a removal of one of the obstructions, the navigation above the foot of the Black Canon 

 and to the point mentioned, even for nine montlis in the year, must be carried on at considerable 

 hazard ; steamers towing barges and having a higher power, drawing less water than those now 

 employed by the Colorado Navigation Company, dimensions of which are given in a rejtort made 

 by B\ t. Lieut. Vo\. S. M. Mansfield to the Chief of Engineers in 1S67, can bo used above the foot 

 of Black Cnnon to better advantage. 



