296 



FIRST YEAR SCIENCE 



would be so far from shore that he would need to be a 

 sturdy swimmer to reach the beach. The entire area 

 of the ancient town has been cut away by the waves and 

 now lies under the sea. This is an example of what has. 

 occurred in many sea coast regions. 



140. Beaches and Bars. Unless the material pillaged 

 from the land by the waves falls into too deep water, it is 



buffeted about by them 



and broken and worn 

 into small pieces. 

 These are then borne 

 along by the shore cur- 

 rents until they find 

 lodgment in some pro- 

 tected place where they 

 can accumulate. When 

 sufficient material has 

 been accumulated, the 

 storm waves and the 

 wind sweep some of it 

 above sea level and 

 fringe the water's edge 

 with a border of water- 

 worn sand and pebbles. 

 These accumulations of 

 shore drift are called 



A year after this picture was taken a beaches. 

 landslide formed a wave which swept 

 away the entire beach and village. 



A LAKE BEACH FORMED BY STREAM 

 AND WAVE ACTION. 



The incoming waves 

 are constantly sweep- 

 ing in material from the shallow bottom against which 

 they strike, and the returning undertow bears its load 

 seaward. Except in time of great storms the 'accumu- 

 lation of material along a beach is at least equal to 

 the wearing away. 



