ALPES, BASSES. 



ALPES, BASSES. 



234 



of Upper Provence, ia bounded N. by the department of Hautes-Alpes, 

 E. by Piedmont, from which it is separated by the crest of the Alps, 

 S. by the department of Var, and W. by those of Vaucluae, Drome, 

 and Hautes-Alpes. It lies between 43 41' and 44 40' N. lat., 5 29' 

 and 6 53' E. long. Its greatest length from N.E. to S.W. is 98 miles; 

 the mean breadth at right angles to the length is about 40 miles. The 

 area is 2680 square miles. The population ia 152,070, which gives 

 5674 to the square mile, being 117'97 below the average per square 

 mile for the whole of France. In density of population, Basses-Alpes 

 ia exceeded by all the other departments of France. 



Surface. The department is almost entirely covered with mountains, 

 varying from above 9000 feet in height to the mere hill range. The 

 crests of the Maritime and Cottian Alps form the eastern boundary, 

 and offshoots from them traverse the surface in a general direction of 

 S.S.W., terminating in the valleys of the Verdon and the Durance. None 

 of the mountains within the department exceed 5900 feet in height, with 

 the exception of one range on the north, which is noticed below. The 

 whole department belongs to the basin of the Durance, which river 

 forma part of the northern and north-western boundaries, and then 

 traverses the department in a S.S.W. direction. The district west of 

 the river is also mountainous; but here the mountains are much lower, 

 and slope generally towards the E. or S.S.E. The mountains are 

 separated by deep valleys, connected with each other in most instances 

 merely by cols or depressions in the ridges and traversed by swift 

 limpid streams which are at times converted into rushing torrents. 

 Towards their heads the valleys are almost invariably of a wild, 

 desolate, and savage character ; their lower parts, where some of them 

 open out into small plains, are covered with a most fertile soil and in 

 summer display the most pictureaque scenery. The mountain-aides 

 are in many places covered with rich Alpine pastures, which present a 

 verdant turf, spangled with odoriferous flowers. Higher up are vast 

 forests of larch and fir and above these towers the bleak, precipitous, 

 and sometimes cavernous rock, which ia surmounted by peaks crowned 

 in a few instances with perpetual anow. In these valleys the bulk of the 

 population resides in villages, which are scattered over the cultivable 

 portions of them. As the valleya are ascended, they are seen to partake 

 of the nature of the mountains ; beyond the villages are the rich Alpine 

 pastures, frequented by numerous flocks and herda in summer, and 

 covered with snow for aeven months in the year. Soon the elevation 

 of the surface banishes all vegetation, the larch and fir disappear, and 

 the vale-head preaenta a narrow rocky defile. 



Sfdngraftf and Communication*. With the exception of a small 

 district belonging to the basin of the Var in the south-east of the depart- 

 ment, Basses-Alpes is drained by the impetuous river Durance, which 

 ia described in a separate article. [DORAXCE.] The principal feeders 

 of the Durance in this department, on the right, are the Buech and 

 the Jabron ; on the left, the Ubaye, the Bldonne, the Asse, and the 

 'ii. The Buech rises in Croix-Haute Mountain, in the east of 

 the department of Drome, and after running a few miles enters that 

 of Hautes-Alpes, in which its course is southerly. On reaching Basses- 

 Alpes it flows for a short distance along the boundary and then turning 

 S.K. it enters the Durance just below Siateron after a course of above 

 40 miles, the greater part of which is available for the floatage of 

 r. The Jabron rises in the south of Drome in the Montfroc 

 Hills, where it forms a cascade of about 80 feet in height The 

 principal part of its course is easterly and in this department, in 

 which it enters the Durance 3 miles below Sisteron. 



The Ubaye rises in the north-eastern angle of the department, at a 

 little distance from Mont-Vino, and flows S.W. to its junction with the 

 Ubayette, below which point it turns nearly due west, and enters the 

 Durance below the village of Ubaye after a course of about 53 miles. 

 A good deal of larch, pine, and fir timber is floated down this river 

 from the high mountain-forests. The basin of the Ubaye, the inhabited 

 part of which is called the valley of Barcelonnette from the principal 

 >n the banks of the river, is screened by two majestic ranges, 

 which at the point where they spring from Mont-Viso are above 9000 

 ! ; t, and gradually lower to 6000 feet ; their highest summits 

 arc always covered with snow. The lower part of the valley, between 

 and Bareelonnette, is called Chateaux-Baa ; the upper part, 

 nix-Hauls, or Val-des-Monta, which contains several pretty 

 villages surrounded by a well-cultivated soil. The highest village is 

 that of Tournoux, which occupies the site of an ancient Roman camp, 

 not far above the junction of the Ubaye and the Ubayette. Above the 

 villages ia a region of rich mountain-pastures. Beyond these is the 

 dark forest-region, which pawed, vegetation soon altogether disappears, 

 and the vale head of the Ubaye terminates in a frightful rocky chasm, 

 at times echoing with torrents, at others ailent under the icy grip 

 of winter, and offering in perspective only the inaccessible peaks of 

 Mont-Viso. 



The Bldonne rises in the mountain of Scstrierea to the N.W. of 

 Allos, and flowing south-westward past Digne, the capital of the 

 department, enters the Durance after a course of about 40 miles, the 

 greater part of which is available fur floating timber. 



The Asse rises N.W. of Caatellane ; it runs first to the N.W. past 

 Sencz and Mezel, and then sweeping round to the S.W. joins the 

 Durance on the left bank, after a course of 49 miles. From Senez 

 loose timber only is floated down the Asae ; the rocks in its bed 

 render it itnpasaable for rafts. 



The Verdon riaes in a mountain-range between Barcelonnette and 

 Allos, runs southward past Castellane, below which, after several 

 windings, it runs along the boundary between Basses-Alpes and Var 

 for several miles. After reaching the boundary, the Verdon flows in 

 a tortuous course in a general western direction, and enters the 

 Durance on the left bank at the point where the four departments of 

 Basses-Alpes, Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Ehone, and Var meet. Its whole 

 length is about 105 miles, but no part of it is navigable even for rafts; 

 only pines and firs unattached are floated down it, owing to the rocks 

 which obstruct ita bed. 



The Var rises in the Italian province of Nizza or Nice, and has a 

 few miles of its course in this department, in which it passes the town 

 of Entrevaux. [VAB.] 



Moat of the rivera above mentioned, and others too small for special 

 notice, become impetuous torrents on the melting of the snow on the 

 high mountains. The department contains a great number of small 

 lakes ; the largest is that of Allos, situated on the northern slope of 

 the Combrette mountains ; it has an area of about 500 acres. 



The department is traversed by three state and nineteen depart- 

 mental roads. Goods are mostly transported on mule-back. 



Climate, Soil, and Produce. The air is pure, keen, and generally 

 healthy. The temperature is not only extremely variable, but, as in 

 all countries similarly constituted, many and even opposite states 

 of it co-exiat : in the southern valleys the fruits of autumn, in the 

 west, spring flowers ; and in the north, the ice of winter, are con- 

 temporaneous. It sometimes happens that the corn ia being reaped 

 in the southern cantons, whilst at Sestrieres the fanner is only sowing 

 his seed. In the valley of Barcelonnette there are only two seasons, 

 summer and winter. The winter lasts from November to May, the 

 months that respectively mark the fall and melting of the snow. 

 During this long interval snow to the depth of 5 to 10 feet covers the 

 whole surface, rounding the asperitiea of the rocks, and enwrapping every 

 species of vegetation except the gloomy verdure of the pine in its mono- 

 tonous shroud ; the streams, held fast by the frost, are motionless and 

 silent ; the slanting sun throws the valleys into the deep shade of the 

 mountains, but the long nights are brilliant and clear, owing to the 

 reflection of the moon's light from the surface of the snow ; and except 

 by the hunger-prompted howl of the wolf, or by the shrill screams 

 of the birds of prey, the general silence ia uninterrupted. On the other 

 hand, on the melting of the snow, the treea rapidly resume their foliage, 

 the soil puts forth a vigorous vegetation, the rocks regain their sharp 

 outline, cascades begin to leap, and the rivers, rendered vigorous as it 

 were by rest, pour down their torrent floods to the terror of the 

 lowland farmer. 



The soil, naturally rugged and barren, owes its fertility chiefly to 

 the industry of the inhabitants. In the northern districts the chief 

 products are rye, barley, oats, potatoes (which, mixed with rye, form 

 the common bread of the country), stone fruit, and timber. In the 

 southern valleys, in addition to the common products of temperate 

 climates, the almond, the olive, the fig, the orange, and the citron are 

 said to grow, as also the mulberry ; here, too, the vine flourishes, and 

 wine of good quality is made for home consumption ; the best is that 

 of Me'es. But perhaps the most important product of the southern 

 and central districta are the plums called in commerce prunes-de- 

 Brignoles, vast quantities of which are grown and dried in the 

 vicinity of Digne. Pears, apples, peaches, apricots, &c., are exten- 

 sively grown in the more level districts. Of the forests, that of 

 Mercourt is the principal and the richest in specimens of white and 

 green oak, beech, fir, pine, and larch. Mushrooms, the gum called 

 manna, turpentine, and truffles are collected in several cantons. 

 The mountain-pastures furnish vast quautities of odoriferous and 

 medicinal plants, and are visited every year by herbalists and 

 perfumers, who sometimes distil the essential oils on the spot. The 

 domestic animals are small ; horses and asses are small in size, and 

 not numerous. A few years ago the number of horses and mules was 

 estimated at 6000 ; horned animals at 15,000 ; goats at 25,000 ; and 

 merino sheep at 220,000. Bees are very generally kept, and the honey 

 is prized for its pure white colour. Some silkworms arc reared. Among 

 the wild animals are wolves, wild sheep, chamois goats, white and 

 common hares, red and white partridges, heathcocks, owls, falcons, 

 kites, &c. The rivers and lakes yield excellent trout and carp. 



The mountain-pastures in the north and east of the department 

 are one of its main sources of wealth. The principal of them are in 

 the neighbourhood of Allos, Colmara, Barcelonnette, and Seyne. The 

 herbage ia luxuriant, and not to be surpassed for ita naturally 

 fattening qualities. In a few days after their arrival, the meagre 

 sheep driven hither from the plains of Crau and the Camargue, in the 

 department of Bouches-du-Rhone, become plump and fat. These 

 sheep are of the restless kind, called by the Spaniards ' trashumantes." 

 [MESTA.] The number that makes this annual migration is about 

 400,000. They are divided into flocks of 2000, led on by the rams, 

 which carry large bells suspended from the neck, and are attended by 

 the shepherd, his family, and his fine large dogs. The day's march is 

 about 8 miles. The. sheep feed all the way, never resting except when 

 penned in for the night, there being regular stations at the end of 

 each day's journey. Lambing takes place during the ascent of the 

 mountains. The young lambs, the children who arc too young to 

 walk, the milk-vessels, and a few household utensils, are conveyed on 



