311 



ANDALUCIA. 



were held here. Pagan worship however had not yet ceased for 

 when Julian viaited Aneyra in 362, he was received without the walls 

 by processions from all the pagan temples of the city. As the power 



. 



of Rome declined the frontiers were exposed to the ravages of various 

 lu 625 Aneyra was taken by a general of the Persian 



enemies. 

 Chosroes. 



In the following century it twice fell into the power of the 

 Arabs. In 1085 it was taken by the Turks, but in 1102 was recovered 

 for a time by the Franks. After being for a considerable period the 

 capital of the Turkish empire, it again changed masters in consequence 

 the great battle between Tamerlane and Bajazet, which was fought 

 in the adjoining plain, July 20, 1402. In 1415 it was recovered by 

 Mohammed I., and since that period has always belonged to the 

 Ottoman empire. 



The modern town is situated on the Enguri River, on a hill in 

 9 56' 30" N. lat., 32 50' E. long., 220 miles E.S.E. from Constan- 

 tinople, 330 miles N.E. from Smyrna, and has a population of about 

 60,000. It contains 9000 houses occupied by Turks, 1500 by Arme- 

 nian Catholics, 300 by Schismatic Armenians, and 300 by Greeks. The 

 streets, as in all Turkish towns, are narrow. Many of the houses are 

 built of mud ; some are large and have court-yards. The chief building 

 is the citadel, which is defended by a triple line of fortifications. The 

 outer and middle walls are built chiefly with fragments of white marble, 

 which formed parts of the ancient buildings of the city. The middle 

 wall is strengthened by square towers, and between it and the outer 

 wall is a large space, occupied by about 5000 of the population. The 

 i stands on the pinnacle of the rock, and is built chiefly of dark 

 porphyritic trap (of which the hill consists), with a few blocks of 

 marble ; here are two gigantic statues of lions couchant. The greatest 

 curiosity at Angora, in the estimation of the inhabitants, are the 

 numerous subterraneous passages, which extend in various directions ; 

 they were formed in ancient times, and some of them are said to be of 

 great length. 



Angora is the chief residence of the Armenian Catholics in Asia 

 Minor. Its chief commerce consists in articles manufactured from the 

 bright silk-like wool of the Angora goat. The exports include also 

 yellow berries, red dye, gums, wax, honey, and goats' and cats'-skins. 

 At the beginning of the last century, there were resident merchants 

 here from England, France, and Holland 



(Tournefort, Voyage da Levant, torn, ii., p. 244 ; M(moire de I'Aca- 

 dtmie det Intcriptioiu, torn, xxxix., 391 ; Rasche, Lexicon Rei NIHU- 

 maria, article ' Aneyra ; ' Hamilton's Retearchea in Asia Minor.) 



There was another Anoyra in Phrygia Epictetus, situated on a hill 



near the west end of a lake from which the Simaul or Susugherli 



;i\-T, the ancient Macestus, springs. In the adjoining village of 



Kili.seh are many large marble blocks, broken columns, and other 



architectural fragments. 



A.VDALUCI'A, commonly written Andalutia in English, is a large 

 division of the kingdom of Spain, which comprises the four ancient 

 provinces of Cordova, Jaen, Granada, and Sevilla. It occupies the 

 south of Spain, is situated between 36 2' and 38 39' N. lat,, 1 38' 

 and T 20' W. long., and is bounded N. by La Mancha and Estremadura, 

 E. by Murcia and the Mediterranean, 3. by the Mediterranean, S.W. 

 by the Atlantic, and W. by Portugal The greatest length, E. to W., 

 is about 300 miles ; the greatest width, N. to S., is about 160 miles. 

 The area and population are as follows : 



Sq. Mile*. 



Cordova 4160 



' 4448 



Granada 9022 



SeriUa 8989 



Total 27,217 



Pop. in 1849. 



348,996 



307,410 



1.1J7.584 



931,908 



8,745,858 



Andalucia formed the largest part of the Roman province of Bcelica, 

 BO named from the river Bcetit, now the Guadalquivir. From the 

 Romans, at the commencement of the 5th century, it was conquered 

 by the Vandals, from whom it seems to have derived its present name, 

 Andalucia, by omission of the initial letter from Vandalucia. In the 

 year 419 they quitted Spain, in order to establish themselves in Africa, 

 and were succeeded by the Visigoths, who held possession of Spain 

 till the invasion of the Moors in 711. In about two years the Moors 

 obtained possession of all Spain, except the mountainous regions of 

 the northern coast, and some of the valleys of the Pyrenees. Moorish 

 Spain was at first a sub-government under the caliphate of Damascus, 

 and Cordova was made the capital city, where the emirs, or governors, 

 resided, who were successively appointed and recalled at pleasure by 

 the caliphs. This form of administration continued till 756, when 

 Abd-el-Hahman I., having obtained possession of Cordova, and nearly 

 the whole of Andalucia, established a dynasty independent of the 

 caliphate of Damascus, and he himself assumed the title of caliph. 

 This caliphate, or kingdom as it has been since called, continued 

 under 17 caliphs, or sultans, till 1036, when on the death of 

 Hbiham IIL the kingdom was dismembered, and several independent 

 dynasties were established in Moorish Spain, of which those in Anda- 

 lucia were Cordova, Granada, Jaen, and Sevilla. Meantime the 

 Christian population of Spain had been advancing southward from 

 the Asturias, had gradually driven back the Moors, and had suc- 

 cessively established several independent kingdoms, which existed for 

 some time contemporaneously with the Moorish kingdoms. Granada 



yield to these persevering attacks of the Christians. 

 **i e cl *y Of Granada was besieged and taken bv 



Ferdinand and Isabella, and the independent power of the Moors in 

 bpam was at an end, after it had lasted about 780 years. The Moors 

 continued by permission, for some time afterwards, to inhabit the 

 mountain-region called the Alpujarras (Alpu.xarras), but all those who 

 territor embra e Chnstlanit y were finally expelled from the Spanish 



Coa*t-Line. Andalucia has upwards of 400 miles of coast-line of 

 which about 250 face the Mediterranean, and 150 the Atlantic On 

 the Atlantic side, from Ayamonte to Cadiz, the coast is low and 

 dy ; it rises as it advances towards Cape Trafalgar, whence to 

 Algeciras, in the Bay of Gibraltar, it is more elevated and rocky but 

 the shores of the bay are low, with the exception of the Rock of 

 Gibra tar itself. Cadiz is the only harbour of importance on the 

 ntic side. Ayamonte Huelva, San Lucar de Barrameda, and 

 erto Santa Maria, at the mouths respectively of the Guadiana 

 i. Ir Guadalquivir and Guadalete, admit only small vessels. On 

 the Mediterranean side. Malaga is the only valuable harbour. Gib- 

 Utar is an open bay, with indifferent anchorage, and two moles which 

 ittle protection, even to small vessels, against gales from the 

 .-west and south. Adra, at the mouth of the Rio Adra, and 

 A meria, at the mouth of the Rio de Almeria, are only roadsteads. 

 Almena however is situated in the recess of a fine bay, and was 

 ormerly a harbour of importance, but its quays and wharfs have 

 disappeared. 



Surface. With the exception of the basin of the Guadalquivir 

 which is for the most part a wide and level plain, Andalucia is a mass 

 rf mountains, hills, and valleys, which, spreading southward from 

 terra Morena, and including the Sierra Nevada with its asso- 

 ciated mountain-groups, extend hi various directions and at various 

 elevations over nearly the whole country. 



The Sierra Morena (Brown Mountain Range) abuts against the 

 ;ntral table-land of Spain on the south, rising above it, and forming 

 a natural boundary between Andalucia and the provinces of La 

 Mancha and Estremadura, It enters Andalucia on the east, as a con- 

 tinuation of the Sierra de Alcaraz, which rests against the table-laud 

 on the south-east in Murcia and La Mancha. It extends thence in a 

 estern direction, slightly inclining to the south, till it reaches the 

 narrow valleys of the Rio Chanza and the Guadiana, which there 

 separate Spain from Portugal. The mountain system afterwards con- 

 tinues its course through Portugal, where it is named the Serra de 

 Caldeirao and Serra de Monchique, and terminates at Cape St. Vincent. 

 The Sierra Morena at the eastern end is from 30 to 40 miles wide. 

 As it advances towards the west, it grows gradually wider, diminish- 

 ing in elevation as it approaches Portugal, and spreading out to a 

 width of 70 or 80 miles. The ascent of the Sierra Morena from the 

 table-land is at first gradual, but becomes steep and nigged towards 

 the central parts, the ridges running southward into Andalucia, with 

 long and generally narrow valleys between them, and conducting 

 numerous tributary streams to the Guadalquivir. On the northern 

 side, next the table-land, cross ridges run from east to west, and only 

 a few streams flow to the Guadiana. The mountains do not reach 

 a great elevation above the table-land, probably not more than 2000 

 feet at the highest points, so that the greatest elevation can hardly be 

 so much as 6000 feet above the sea-level. From its peculiarly abnipt 

 structure, the Sierra Morena is very difficult to traverse, and some of 

 the roads are hardly practicable for mules. The principal road from 

 Madrid into Andalucia passes over the summit-level by a defile called 

 the Puerta Despena Perros (deipena lot perrot' throw the dogs down 

 from the rocks'), which is very rugged, the rocks splintered vertically, 

 and standing up like the fragments of a vast miu. Oaks and chest- 

 nuts grow from the fissures, and the Rio Campana is seen far below 

 winding its way towards the Guadalquivir. 



Another mountain range of much greater elevation than the Sierra 

 Morena, and including one summit higher than any in the Pyrenees, 

 extends in a similar direction across Andalucia, rising on the east 

 near Cartagena, attaining its highest elevation and its distinctive name 

 of the Sierra Nevada (Snowy Mountain Range) between 8 and 4 W. 

 long., and terminating at Tarifa and Cape Trafalgar. The two highest 

 points of the Sierra Nevada are the Picacho de Mulhacen (11,668 feet) 

 and the Picacho de Veleta (11,382 feet). Both are covered with 

 snow in winter, and in ravines and crevices all the year round, but in 

 summer the rocky summits are bare. These two mountains rise 

 with abrupt acclivities on the northern side. The Picacho de Veleta 

 is about 20 miles S.E. from the city of Granada, and the other some 

 10 miles farther. The ascent of the Picacho de Veleta may be made 

 up the western and southern flanks, and though slow and laborious 

 is attended with little danger ; it requires two days, but the first 

 day's journey may be made on horseback to within half a mile of the 

 summit, which is very rugged, consisting of brown rocks, occasionally 

 elevated into precipitous crags, but mostly in masses resembling 

 Cyclopean walls overthrown and in ruins. The views from the summit 

 are probably unequalled in Europe, certainly not surpassed. To the 

 south and south-east, immediately under the eye, are the mountains 

 and valleys of the Alpujarras ; next, the Mediterranean ; farther off, 

 the shores of Africa ; and in the distance, but distinctly visible, the 



