633 



ARNSTADT. 



ARRAN. 



634 



Soest, 15 miles from Hamm on the railway to Paderbom and 13 miles 

 N. from Arnsberg on a small feeder of the Lippe, is an old town sur- 

 rounded by high walls flanked by round towers and pierced by five 

 gates : population, close upon 9000. It contains a Catholic cathedral, 

 which is built in the Byzantine style, and in which the Protestants 

 have the ' Simultaneum,' or right of use for worship. The Petri- 

 Kirche is also built in the Byzantine style ; and the Wieseu-Kirche is 

 a fine specimen of the German gothic. The streets are narrow, dark, 

 and crooked. There are also several Lutheran and Calvinistic churches 

 in the town, a gymnasium of the first class, and a training school for 

 teachers. The industrial products are some linen, broadcloth, and 

 leather : the town has corn and wool markets. The neighbourhood is 

 laid out in fruit plantations and market gardens. The district of Soest 

 produces the best barley in Westphalia. About a mile from Soest are 

 the saltworks and baths of Sassendorf. 



Unna, 20 miles W. from Soest, has extensive saltworks supplied 

 from brine-springs ; manufactures of calico, beer, and spirits ; and 

 5300 inhabitants. The town is surrounded by walls and ditches : it 

 was formerly connected with the Hanseatic League. At Werl, also a 

 small town of 3600 inhabitants midway between Soest and Unna, 

 there are important saltworks. 



iTA I)T. [SCHWARTZBURG-SONDERSHAUSEN.] 



ARNSWALDE. [BRANDENBURG.] 



AROLSEN, a small town in Germany situated on the Aar, 23 miles 

 S. from Cassel, in 51 25' N. lat., 8" 56' E. long., is the residence of 

 the princes of Woldeck. The town is regularly built, possesses woollen, 

 leather, and iron-ware manufactories, a college, a grammar-school, 

 three churches, and about 1500 inhabitants. The palace is a hand- 

 some structure of spacious dimensions : it contains a gallery of paint- 

 ings, a numismatic cabinet rich in Greek coins, a museum of antiqui- 

 ties from Herculaneum and Pompeii, and a library of 30,000 volumes. 

 There is a handsome avenue of six rows of ancient oaks, 2000 paces 

 in length, close to the town. 



ARO'NA, a town of Piedmont, in the division of Novara, is situated 

 in 45 47' N. lat., 8 34' E. long., 36 miles N.W. from Milan, on the 

 western shore of the Lago Maggiore, and near its southern extremity : 

 the population is about 4000. The town stands on the Simplon road 

 from Switzerland to Milan, from which another post-road branches 

 out at Arona, leading to Novara, Vercelli, and Turin. Arona is a neat 

 and bustling little town, with a small castellated harbour on the lake ; 

 it carries on a considerable transit trade between Piedmont and 

 Switzerland. Goods coming from Genoa and Turin are embarked at 

 Arona and sent across the lake to the Swiss canton of Ticino, whence 

 they pass by the new road over Mount Bernardin into the Orisons, 

 and thence into Germany. The principal street is very narrow. 

 There are dockyards for building vessels to ply on the lake. A steamer 

 which traverses the Lago Maggiore daily calls at Arona. The situation 

 of the town is delightful, just within the last range of hills above which 

 the snowy Alps are seen and at the opening of the wide plains of 

 Lombardy. The neighbourhood produces good wine. St. Charles 

 Borromeo, the celebrated archbishop of Milan, was born in October 

 1538 in the castle adjoining Arona, which is now in ruins. A colossal 

 statue was raised to him on a hill above the town in 1697. It is 66 

 feet high or 106 feet including its granite pedestal, and it forms a conspi- 

 cuous object for miles around. The head, hands, and feet are cast in 

 bronze, the body is formed of a column of large stones, surrounded 

 with sheets of hammered copper, which constitute the drapery of the 

 figure. The proportions of the statue are very good. The Saint 

 appears holding his breviary under his left arm ; the right arm is 

 extended, in the act of bestowing his benediction on the country. 

 A railway in in course of construction from Novara to Arona, in con- 

 tinuation of the line from Genoa to Novara ; and a port is about to be 

 constructed by the Piedmontese government close to the railway 

 station, whence government steamboats will ply to the north shore of 

 the Lago Maggiore, thus ojpening a regular and rapid communication 

 between Switzerland and Piedmont. 



ARPI'NO, the ancient Arpinum, a city of Italy, the birthplace of 

 > and Caius Marius, is situated in the Neapolitan province of Terra 

 <li Lavoro, midway between Rome and Naples, being about 65 miles 

 distant from each. It stands on a bold rugged eminence to the left of the 

 Garigliano (the ancient Liris), and near its confluence with the Fibreno. 

 The old town, which before the extension of the power of the Roman 

 republic formed part of the territory of the Volsci, was built on the 

 summit of a steep rock. An ancient arch, constructed of rough hewn 

 stones and pointed like the gothic arch ; a considerable extent of 

 cyclopean walls, which run along the northern brow of the hill, occu- 

 pied by the present town as far as the ancient citadel on its summit ; 

 an ancient cistern ; four subterranean arches, and other traces still 

 remain. The citadel is called by the natives Civita Vecchia. Arpinum 

 in alliance with Rome freed itself from the rule of the Samnites, and 

 was rewarded with some of the privileges of a Roman municipium 

 B.C. 302. (Livy, it. 1.) About B.C. 188 the inhabitant* of Arpinum 

 receiv.-.l th- full privileges of Roman citizens, and were enrolled in 

 irnelian tribe. (Livy, xxxviii. 36.) During the later years of 

 the republic it wan a flourishing municipal town. Though Arpinum 

 partook in the horrors consequent on the overthrow of the Roman 

 power, and in the desolation of the middle ages, it wajj never wholly 

 obliterated as a city, but has continued like other ancient places in the 



neighbourhood to be of comparative importance. It once owed its 

 preservation to the fame of Cicero and Marius. In the wars between 

 the houses of Aragon and Anjou for the possession of the Neapolitan 

 kingdom, Arpino took part with the French against the Aragonese 

 and the pope. The pontiff (Pius II.) generously commanded Napoleone 

 Orsini, his successful captain, to ' spare Arpiuo for the memory of 

 Caius Marius and Marcus Tullius.' 



Arpino, like most other towns in Italy, gradually descended as 

 peace and tranquillity were established, from the lofty hill top to 

 lower ground, and it now stands on an inferior ridge nearer to the 

 Liris. 



The present population is about 9000 ; manufactures of cloth, the 

 best made in the kingdom of Naples, of parchment, paper, and 

 leather are briskly carried on in the town and its vicinity. The 

 surrounding scenery, the picturesque beauty of which is scarcely 

 surpassed in any part of Italy, is woodland and very mountainous. 

 The soil in the valley of the Liris, or Garigliano, is alluvial and 

 productive ; and a rich deep and black loam, that gives nourish- 

 ment to extensive woods of the largest oak-trees in Italy with the 

 exception of those on Mount Garganus, extends far up the sides of 

 the mountains. The river Liris runs in a deep bed ; its full clear 

 rapid stream, very different from the muddy sleepy character it 

 assumes in the flat country nearer to its mouth, has formed some 

 curious little islands, and a number of cascades, the soothing noise of 

 which is constantly heard in the town of Arpino. The Fibrenus, a 

 deep, rapid, pellucid, and excessively cold mountain stream, which has 

 its sources in a part of the Apennine chain that separates the vale of 

 the Liris from the Fuciue Lake (Celano), joins the Liris by a gentle 

 water-fall, about three miles above Arpino. The banks of both rivers 

 are shaded with poplar-trees of exceedingly fine growth. On the 

 banks of the Fibrenus in the plain below the town was the estate 

 which Cicero inherited from his father. Near its mouth the Fibrenus 

 divides into two branches, between which and the Liris there is a 

 beautiful little island of a triangular shape. This islet is supposed to 

 be the ' Amalthea ' of Cicero, which was one of the orator's favourite 

 retreats. (Cicero to Atticus, i. 16; ii. 1.) Opposite to the island, and 

 in an angle formed by one of the branches of the Fibrenus with the 

 Liris, there stands a building called La Villa di San Domenico, which 

 was built for the accommodation of some monks of the Dominican 

 order in the middle ages, on the site and mainly out of the ruins of 

 the great orator's Arpine villa, and which in its turn is deserted and 

 almost a ruin. At the distance of a few miles from the town of 

 Arpino, on the right bank of the Liris, there is a religious house 

 occupied by Trappists, which has always borne the name of 

 * Casamari/ or house of Marius. 



The ancient remains, in addition to those already mentioned, 

 existing in and about Arpino, include the cloaca:, or common sewers 

 of the city, which like those of ancient Rome are capacious and 

 built in the finest manner, and the ruins of a Roman bridge called by 

 the natives ' II Ponte di Cicerone," built across the Liris, between 

 Arpino and Sora. Of this bridge, which had probably four arches, 

 three arches have disappeared. Within the town there are some 

 fragments of old Roman roads and of some inscriptions and broken 

 statues. Two rude and evidently modern busts of Marius and Cicero 

 stand in the piazza, or market-place, where is a town-hall of modern 

 erection with niches for the statues of those two great ornaments of 

 Arpino. The public school is called the Tullian College, and the 

 humble play-house the Tullian Theatre. The initials (M. T. C.) of the 

 orator's name are seen in all directions, and they alone form the 

 insignia or arms of the city. The cloth-manufacturers of the place, 

 more eopecially, boast that Arpinum was famous in the time of the 

 Roman republic for its woollen goods and the art of dyeing them, and 

 that the father of the immortal Cicero was a fuller. Cicero's father 

 however was of equestrian rank and belonged to one of the most 

 ancient and considerable' families in the town. On the banks of the 

 Liris there are numerous mineral springs. Iron, breccia, white 

 marble, spotted red marble, and marble of a beautiful warm yellow 

 hue are found in the neighbourhood. 



ARQUES. [SEINE-INFERIEUBE.] 



ARRAGON. [ARAGON.] 



ARRAN, an island lying off the south-west coast of Scotland, 

 between 55" 26' and 55 45' N. lat., 5 4' and 5 25' W long., 

 forming part of the shire of Bute. It lies in the bay formed by the 

 peninsula of Cantire [AROYLE] and the Ayrshire coast ; and is sepa- 

 rated from the former by the sound of Kilbrannan; and from the 

 latter by the Frith of Clyde. The distance from the island of Bute is 

 above 5 miles ; and from Cantire about 4 miles. From the Ayrshire 

 coast the distance is about 13 miles. (' Map of Scotland,' published 

 by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge.) The greatest 

 length of the island, measured from near Loch Ranza to Kildonan, ia 

 more than 20 miles, and the greatest breadth from Drumodune 

 Point to the head-land between Brodick and Lamlash bays, about 

 12 miles. 



Loch Ranza on the north side, and on the east the bays of Brodick 

 and Lamlash, are the chief inlets. Lamlash Bay, in 55 32' N. lat., 

 5 4' W. long., is sheltered by the Holy Island, which lies across the 

 entrance, and is nearly 2 miles long from north to south, with an 

 average breadth of half a mile. The cliffs of this island are chiefly basalt, 



