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RADEN. 







The grand-duchy in divided into four circles, which with thoir area, 

 subdivision*, and population, are as follows : 



According to the Census returns of December 1849, the population 

 comprUed 905,148 Catholics; 432,184 Lutherans and Reformed- 

 Lutherans; 479 DUsidenU ; 1421 Mcnnonites; and 23,547 Jews, 

 liaden is the moot important of the German duchies ; its area is not 

 quite so largo as that of Yorkshire, which exceeds it in population 

 by above 435,000. 



Surf act and Soil. The larger part of this state is of a mountainous 

 or hilly character ; it is interspersed with fertile and pleasant valleys, 

 but contains no considerable plain, except the almost uninterrupted 

 rich and beautiful level, which, lying on the, right bank of the Rhine 

 and in its sweep northward between that river and the Black Forest, 

 has the Boden-Sce or Lake of Constanz for its southern and the Main 

 for its northern extremities. The country slopes from east to west 

 towards the Rhino, into which nearly all the rivers in the Baden 

 territory discharge their waters. The soil ia generally productive ; 

 but more particularly in the valley of the khine, and the land 

 adjacent to the Neckar; even the sandy region about the capital 

 (Karlsruhe) has been worked into fertility by persevering cultivation ; 

 and there are few tracts in the more elevated districts where the 

 luxuriant growth of timber is impeded by climate or positive barrenness. 

 The greater part of the surface is as stated before of mountainous 

 or hilly character ; this is mainly owing to the elevated range of the 

 Schtmmcald ('Black Forest'), which derives its name from the dark 

 tint of its foliage. The highlands which compose it spread over the 

 southern districts of Baden almost to the banks of the Rhine, and 

 rising nearly opposite to the northern declivities of the Jura, have 

 been considered .by many as a prolongation of the Jura range. The 

 Schwarzwald runs parallel to the Rhino from south-south-west to 

 north-north-east ; it forms a connected chain rather than a scries of 

 isolated groups, and in its course from the vale of the Wutach 

 towards the left bank of the Neckar it throws out offsets into the 

 neighbouring districts, where its wild and woody heights subside into 

 slopes covered with vineyards and orchards, thickening in proportion 

 as they approach the Rhine. Its heart is primitive granite and 

 gneiss, with porphyry on its sides, and sandstone at its base and 

 along its most elevated ridges. The principal chain contains silver, 

 copper, load, and cobalt: it abounds in pines and firs, oaks and 

 beeches, and occupies about 1290 square miles, of which upwards of 

 one-half belongs to Baden. The highest summits, the Feldberg, 

 between Todtuau and Obergarten, the Belchen, at the extremity of 

 the Tale of Mitnster, and the Candel near Waldkirch, do not rise higher 

 than 4386, 4356, and 3906 feet respectively. The greatest length 

 of the chain is about 80 miles ; its greatest breadth in the south is 

 about 37 miles, and in the north 18 miles. Its inhabitants who 

 exceed 300,000 in number maintain themselves by rearing cattle and 

 by mechanical occupations. The rivers which rise within it are the 

 Danube, Neclur, Wutach, Schwarzoch, Conder, Treisam, Kinzig, 

 Murg, Knx, Naguld, Alb, Ac. Host of them flow westward through 

 pictui-*|ue valleys, and discharge their waters into the Rhine. In 

 one of these volleys are situated the celebrated baths of Baden-Baden. 

 The most northerly continuation of the Schwarzwald spreads out into 

 a spacious plateau from 13 to 18 miles in width, which is occasionally 

 diversified by eminences of some altitude. 



Immediately opposite to the Block Forest but on the northern or 

 right bank of the Neckar fixes the Odenwold, a range of inferior 

 devotion. It spreads through that portion of Baden which In < 

 north of the Neckar, and takes n north-easterly bend towards the 

 Tauber and Itain ; in the west it has an abrupt descent to the valley 

 of the 1 Oi inc. In the latter direction it is composed of granite and 

 gneiss, overlaid with sandstone, but its eastern mosses ore wholly of 

 sandstone-formation and of much gentler declivity. It is not nearly 

 ao wild a region as the Block Forest; it is densely covered with oaks, 

 bseobss, and pinen, and intersected with small volleys watered by 

 inconsiderable streams ; and its sides and base as well as these valleys 

 an in general highly cultivated and thickly peopled. The most 

 elevated points in the Odenwold are the Katienbuckel, near Eber- 

 bwb, ami the Wolcknopf, north of Wcinh. im ; the first is 1878 feet 

 and the latter 1572 feet above the level of the sea. The south- 

 westernmost point of this range is the Ueiligenberg, in the vicinity 

 of Heidelberg, which is 1148 feet in height 



The Kaimr*tuhl, or Emperor's Seat, a volcanic mass, nearly 10 miles 

 in length and 6 miles in breadth, which lin* between the Rhine and 

 Trusam, and is wholly isolated from the Black Forest, may be 

 looked upon as an independent group; its highest summit, the 

 Todtenkopf, has an elevation of 1760 feet; the finest vineyards in 

 the grand-duchy lie around it 



Itireri a*d /xU. Uo-len contains three springs, which are the 



source of the second in rank of European rivers. The most consi- 

 derable of these springs ore the Brig or Brigoch, which flows from 

 Mount Kesselberg in the Schwarzwald, near St Qeorgen. in the south- 

 eastern part of the grand-duchy, and passes through llillingen ; and 

 the Brege, which rises at the foot of Mount Rossack, above Furt- 

 wangen, and flows nearly south-east until it meets the former, 

 and immediately afterwords unites with the third and smallest stream, 

 in the court-yard of Prince Furstenberg's residence at Donaueschingen, 

 from which spot the united waters assume the name of the Douau or 

 the Danube. Hence it takes a north-easterly direction, quite the 

 I liulen territory soon after to the west of Mohringen, whence it flows 

 through the south extremity of Wiirtemberg, and once more entering 

 Baden beyond Frielingen, passes into Hohenzollern to the west of 

 Sigmaringcn. The most important stream in the grand-duchy is the 

 Rhine, which enters it west of Stein, in the canton of Schaffhausen, 

 on the southern border. On quitting the territory of Basel, where it 

 turns to the north, the Rhine skirts the western districts of Baden 

 .rntil it enters the grand-duchy of Hesse immediately north of Mann- 

 heim. Its fall, between that town and the point where it issues from 

 the Boden-See, is 916 feet; between Schaffhausen and Basel its 

 breadth widens from about 340 to 750 feet, and at Mannheim it widens 

 to 1200 feet. The flying bridges which cross it afford to Baden a 

 means of communication with France and Switzerland. Its winding 

 course is intersected by numerous islands, abounding in wood and 

 game ; its waters are rich in fish, and its bed affords gold-dust and 

 crystal in small quantities. The principal tributaries of the Rhine 

 on the Baden side ore the Neckar, which is navigable before it reaches 

 Heinsheim, where it enters the grand-duchy from Wurtemberg ; it 

 then winds first to the north and then to the south as far as Neckar- 

 Qemiind; thence it flows north-westward through the narrow low- 

 land between the Black Forest and Odenwald, and passing Heidelberg 

 falls into the Rhine at Mannheim. The Main, another navigable 

 ntreain, forms part of the northern boundary of Baden, and before 

 quitting its territory receives the Tauber above Wertheira, after the 

 latter has traversed the north-eastern part of the circle of Ober-Khein. 

 The Kinzig rises on the Wurtemberg side of the Black Forest, runs 

 from south-east to north-west through Hansach, Qengenbach, and 

 Offenburg, in the circle of Mittel-Rhein, and discharges itself ii 

 Rhine at Kehl. The Murg, a smaller river, though not of in 

 utility for the transport of timber, enters from Wurtemberg at For- 

 bach, runs first northward and then north-westward through a beautiful 

 valley to Rastadt (near which town it receives the Oos) and fal 1 

 the Rhino at Steinmaueru, north of Rastadt The Wutach rushes 

 south-eastward through the wild regions of the Black Forest, joins the 

 Srhlueht below Thiengen, and enters the Rhine south of that town. 

 The Elz rises in the higher regions of the Black Forest, at no great 

 distance from Schonnch, in the northern part of the circle of the 

 Unter-Rhein, runs in a winding and rapid course past Waldkiivh. 

 Emmendiugen, and Renziugcn, is joined by the Dreisam (or Treisam) 

 ut Riegel, and flows into the Rhine through several arms in the 

 neighbourhood of Niederhuuseu and Kuppel. 



The largest lake within the grand-duchy is composed of that ]> 

 of the Lake of Constanz which is the entire property of Baden, consist- 

 ing of the Zcller, or Unter-See, about 9 miles long and 44 miles hro:id, 

 in which the picturesque island of Reichenau is situated ; ami the 

 Ueborlinger-See, on arm of the Lake of Conatanz, which stretches into 

 the south-eastern part of the 'circle of the lake' (See-Kreis), and i 

 enlivened by the beautiful islet of Mainau. Three mnall streams, 

 each named Aadi, enter the Lake of Constanz; one falls into the 

 Unter-Sce near Rudolfzell ; another runs from the Nellenburg moun- 

 tains into the Cberlingen-Sco ; and the third enters the Bodeu-Seo 

 near Morsburg. Among the other lakes in the grand-duchy are the 

 Mockiugcr-See, near Lake Coustanz, in which sturgeons of 100 Ibs. 

 weight are sometimes caught ; the Illuu < "I ' I'fullriidorf; 



and within the regions of the Black Forent the Scliliicht-See ; the 1-VM 

 See, 2287 feet above the sea, which is united by the GuUeh with the 

 Titti-See ; the Eichner-See, in the neighbourhood of Schopf heiin, at an 

 elevation of 1467 feet, whose waters suddenly disappear and as sud- 

 denly return, forming at one time a lake and at others being converted 

 into arable or grazing land ; and the Nonnmatter-See, at an elevation 

 of 3000 feet, encircled by a rocky wood-crowned amphitheatre, rising 

 900 feet above it This lake is celebrated for its floating island of tnrf. 



TWiu. The principal towns are Karlsruhe, the capital of the 

 grand-duchy mid of the circle of Mittel-Rhein, population, 23,219; 

 Mannheim, capital of the circle of Untcr-Khein, population about 

 22,000; Freiburg, chief town of the circle of Ober-Hh< -in, population 

 about 16,000; Heidelberg, 12,000; Rastadt, above 6000; Durlach, 

 formerly the residence of the Margraves of Baden, population, 5000 ; 

 llnichsal, above 7000 ; Constanz, chief town of tin- Sec-Krcis, popula- 

 tion, 6400; Pforzheim, 7200; Baden-Baden, 6000; Lahr, 6000; 

 Weinbeim, 5400 ; and Wertheim, about 4000. The most important 

 of these towns are noticed separately in this work. 



Climate. The climate throughout the levels and valleys ia mild 

 ind healthy ; but in the elevated regions of the Schwarzwald and 

 iKlenwald it is exceedingly raw and inclement. Hero indeed where 

 spring, slimmer, and autumn are crowded into the space of three 

 .-, the transition from the winter to the open season is so abrupt 

 that it is not uncommon to pass from frost and snow at once into the 



