ELGINSHIRE. 



ELGINSHIRE. 



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Mart marked UK! commanding poiut on the Elginshire coast, wu the 

 lut itruughold of the Duel in thii part of Scotland, and U suppocod 

 to hare been a Roman station. Several vestige* of antiquity are still 

 to be teen here, at the ' Roman Well ' or bath, and remain* of gravel- 

 mound* raised for defence. At the harbour of Burghead, where 

 team-vessels from London, Leith, and Sutherland touch, there are 

 11 feet of water at neap-tides, and 14 feet at spring-tides. Fiudhorn, 

 the sea-port for the burgh of Forres and the western parts of the 

 county, stands at the influx of the river Fiudhorn, and at the north 

 side of a large shallow bay. 



Surface and Gnlogy. The portion of the county which is bounded 

 by the Moray Frith, and averaging about five miles in breadth, U flat, 

 and characterised by its light and gravelly soil, with occasional ri<U-'-< 

 of clay, and protrusions of the underlying rocks, which are subordinate 

 beds of the old red-sandstone formation. In a few spot* may be seen 

 traces of oolite, with its characteristic fossil*. Except some sterile 

 sands clone by the sea and the Loch of Spynie, almost the whole sur- 

 face of the flat or ' How of Moray ' is occupied by cultivated fields, of 

 which wheat is the staple production, or by thriving plantations of 

 Scotch fir, larch, and hardwood. Gneiss is the prevailing rock south- 

 ward to the confines of Banff and Inverness shires, forming, with its 

 associated granite, beds of limestone, and other primitive rocks, many 

 high and rugged hills, which shelter numerous fertile valleys. Modern 

 plantations have taken the place of the ancient forests of Morayshire. 

 Around Elgin, and at Covesea, and in sever.il other localities, are 

 inexhaustible quarries of sandstone of every degree of hardness and 

 texture, and of many tints of colour, from the fine rosy hue of Newton 

 to the deep yellow of BishopmilL The county otherwise is destitute 

 of mineral productions ; and with the exception of the supplies of peat 

 and wood which it affords, the inhabitants have to depend for fuel 

 upon the coal-fields of the south. Lime is imported in Urge quantities 

 from the same quarter. 



Hydrography, Cvuimunicatiunt, <i-c. The only portion of Elginshire 

 that touches the sea is the coast-line already described. The rivers 

 belonging in whole or in part to the county, are the Spty, the Findhorn, 

 and the Lossie, with some of their tributaries. The ' rapid Spey ' 

 rises in Badenoch, a district of Inverness-shire, and is said to drain 

 about 800,000 acres. In its course through Elginshire it is joined by 

 the Ncthy, the Dulnan, and the Avon ; after the junction of the Avon 

 the Spey becomes much more impetuous than before. The river runs 

 in a north-easterly direction along the eastern boundary of the county, 

 and, from its numerous windings, its course is nearly 100 miles long, 

 the direct distance being only 75 miles. The Spey winds its course 

 through varied and picturesque scenery. It rises among the sterile 

 hills of Badenoch, and passes the sylvan retreats of Hothiemnrcliua 

 and Castle Grant its banks are adorned by the mansions of Ballin- 

 dalloch, Elchies, Aberlour, Arndilly, and Orton, and it waters the 

 valleys of Dipple, Dundurcas, Rothes, Dondoleith, and Dalvey. Ita 

 finest portion U that which lies between the villages of Rothes and 

 Aberlour, and which has the iron bridge of Croigellochie as its centre. 

 The Findlwrn rises among the Monadleadh Hills in Inverness-shire, 

 and in its course passes through a succession of rugged hills and 

 wooded dales, alternating with rock and meadow. Only a small por- 

 tion of this stream, which is about 90 miles in length, traverses Elgin- 

 shire, where it falls into the sea at Fiudhorn Harbour ; it is a broad 

 and shallow stream, being navigable only for small craft when the tide 

 has risen. The scenery of Dumphail and Relugas, on the Durie, a 

 tributary of the Findhorn, is much admired by tourists. Salmon are 

 caught in the river Findhorn. The Lottie runs between the Spey and 

 the Findhorn, traversing the central part of the county. The deep 

 ravines in its course are often exceedingly picturesque. This river 

 rises in the hills between Dallas and Strathspey. In its lower course 

 it becomes more winding than either the Spey or the Findhorn. It 

 is joined by the Lochty, or Blackburn, about two miles to the west of 

 Elgin, and after sweeping round the north side of that town, and 

 the eastern side of Barflathill, falls into the Moray Frith at Lossie- 

 mouth, or Stotfieldhead Harbour. Near its influx the Lossie receives 

 the surplus waters of the Loch of Spynie. The circumference of this 

 Loch and the quality of iU waters have varied greatly at different 

 periods. An underlying bed of marine shells shows it to have been 

 once one of the bert-furnished and most extended oyster and cockle- 

 beds in Scotland. After it had been separated from the sea and con- 

 1 into a lake or lagoon, the salt or brackish water gave place to 

 the fresh, which destroyed all the marine mollusks, and nourished for 

 age. Urge masse* of Tfplut and Cyperacetr, with their attendant 

 peciea. At various times the water* of the Loch have been partially 

 drained off, and considerable portions of land have been recUimed 

 and cultivated. In August, 1829, mmorable a* the era of the ' Moray 

 floods, the water, in the Loch ro so high as to carry off the floodgate 

 at the mouth of th. small canal by which the superfluous waterVas 

 allowed to -caps. ThU has never been replacecf ; and consequently 

 the lower part of the Loch rises and falls with the tide. The Loch of 

 Spynie is a favourite resort for hosU of wild fowl, particularly of the 

 migratory sorts. Lochindorb, with its island, and remains of a royal 

 castle, is a fine piece of water, lying on the outskirts of the county 

 It abounds with excellent trout, a* doe* the Loch of Glenmore, in 

 Abemethy, which however exceU Lochindorb in scenery, as it lies in 

 > wall-wooded valley. Loch Nabo, between Fochabers and Elgin, 



Lochs Trevie, Dallas, and Noir, near the sources of the Loasie, are 

 also habitats of the trout. 



The leading lines of road are those from Elgin to Forres; from 

 Elgin to Lossiemouth ; from Orion, on the Spey, to Elgin; from 

 Elgin to Burghead ; from Burghead to Forres ; from Forces to 

 Grautown. Within the hut thirty year* good cross roads have been 

 constructed in every direction over the county. Except in the winter 

 sail regularly from one or more of the Elginshire 



ports, particularly Uurghead, to London, Edinburgh, Aberdeen, Banff, 

 Inverness, Crouiarty, luvergordou, and GoUpie. There is neither 

 canal nor railway in the county. 



Climate, Soil, AyricuUure.Tke climate of Elginshire is salubrious. 

 The open, sandy, and gravelly nature of the soil acts as a great 

 natural drain, and, unlike the trng clays of tlie adjoining counties, 

 prevents the stagnation a:id consequent evaporation .vhich 



loads the atmosphere with moisture and reduces the temperature. 

 The northern part of the county is but little elevated above the sea 

 level, and is not so much exposed to cold and moist winds from the 

 German Ocean as Bnillf and Aberdeen, and, being surrounded on nil 

 sides, except the north, by mountains which attract the clouds, il In. 

 the reputation of having forty days of fair weather more than tl.r 

 other parts of Scotland. The greatest differences as to the quantity 

 and duration of snow are observed between the higher, or southern, 

 and the lower, or northern divisions of the county. While 

 operation in agriculture can be carried on without interruption along 

 the coast and for miles into the interior, yet among the hills, south of 

 the line where wheat con bo profitably cultivated, the ground HOIUC- 

 timcs remains for months together, either covered with snow or bound 

 by frost, so as to be inaccessible to the ploughshare. In Elginshire, 

 us indued on the whole cost coast of Scotland, spring is the most severe 

 mid trying season. Alternations of heat and cold, with prevailing 

 cast winds, frequent snow showers, and late frosts are the usual 

 characteristics of this season. Occasionally north-westerly winds 

 occur, which blow at all seasons of the year, and continue for three or 

 four days at a time. 



In the lower or northern division of Elginshire wheat is the staple 

 produce of the arable land, in the upper districts the staple is oats. 

 Its capability to grow and ripen wheat curly gave a stimulus to the 

 agriculture of the northern district, which was anciently reputed to 

 be the ' granary of Scotland.' Drill husbandry was early adopted ou 

 the larger farms, and now universally prevails. Under the dn 

 and example of the Morayshire Former's Club, instituted in 17'Jlt, the 

 best breeds of cattle, horses, and sheep, and the most improved agri- 

 cultural implements, have becu introduced. Drainage has been largely 

 and systematically carried out on most farms. Turnips thrive well in 

 all parts of the county ; Swedish turnips have been more extensively 

 cultivated of late years, and mangel wurzel has been introduced. Oil 

 every farm, however small, a regular rotation is stipulated for by tho 

 proprietor, and includes a green crop or cleansing once every four, 

 five, or six years. The great majority of forms are oompar.r 

 small from 50 to 100 acres but some contain from 400 to 600 

 acres. The almost universal term of lease is 19 years. The cattle 

 chiefly used in Elginshire are the short-horned, and crosses of that 

 breed with the old stocks of the district Sheep husbandry is extend- 

 ing over the lower port of the county. In tho higher part of the 

 county the farms usually have extensive pastures attached, which are 

 better adapted for grazing cattle than the lower districts. lu the 

 low.-r ports the flocks are chiefly composed of the Cheviot and 

 Leicester breeds, with their crosses ; while the block-faced variety are 

 found in the remoter glens and hills. Large flocks of these In 

 are brought down to winter in the more genial valleys near to, and 

 opening upon, the low country. The horses used for agricultural 

 purposes, by careful crossing, have been greatly improved, Tho 

 improvement in the breed of swine has also been very marked. Thu 

 dense population of the villages along the shore ilepmd upon tin: 

 produce of the fisheries for their subsistence. The herring finh> 

 July and August is their harvest, and affords abundant employment 

 for about six weeks. Of late years tho white fish (elm-ily cod and 

 haddock), have been cured and exported to the London and other 

 markets. 



Toifut, VlUaga, <tc. There are two royal burghs in this county, 

 and Founts. Besides the places already referred to as situated 

 on the coast, the following villages may bo noticed : JIMu/,, 

 small village separated from Elgin by the Lossie, contains 

 grain-mills. Some good villa residences ore situated on the north 

 bank, which overhangs the river, and commands a fine view of l.l_;iu 

 and the range of the Mauocli which lies southward. I'ockabcn, a. 

 burgh of barony in the parish of Bcllio, one of the most beautifully 

 situated villages in the north of Scotland. In tho centre of the village 

 is a fine open square in which are the parish church and an Episcopal 

 chapel Miln's Institution for the free education of tho youth of the 

 parish, stands at the east end of the village, and is an elegant struc- 

 ture. The chief ornament* of the neighbourhood, although locally 

 situated in Banflshirc, are the buildings and grounds of Gordon Castle, 

 the seat of the Duke of Richmond. A'inyiton is on the Spey, one of the 

 most valuable fish rivers in Scotland. Of late years the rent of the fishing 

 in the Spey, which was at one time 80001. a year, has been some 20(>0{. 

 or 3000/. lower. The fish hava bvun decreasing in number as well as in 



