1C01 



FERMANAGH. 



FERMANAGH. 



1003 



surface is undulating, and generally the land is very fertile, with tracts 

 of bog however in the low grounds. The mansions and demesnes of 

 Necarue, near Irvinestown, and Jamestown and Crocknacreeve, near 

 Ballinamallard, are the most worthy of remark in this region. From 

 a short distance east of Enniskillen a range of round-backed hills, 

 called the Toppit Mountains, stretches in a general northern direction, 

 and joins the Tattymoyle mountains in Tyrone, a few miles south of 

 Fintona. On the western slope these hills are generally cultivated ; the 

 eastern side is in many places very steep, and overgrown with heath. 

 This range forms the western limit of the basin of the Drummany, 

 the largest river-basin in the county, the eastern limit being formed 

 by the Slieve-Beagh (commonly pronounced Slabay) Mountains, which 

 have a width of 7 miles and a length of about 13 miles. This moun- 

 tain mass extends in a northern direction from Lisnaakea, and the 

 small hamlet of Donough along the eastern border of Fermanagh into 

 Tyrone. The summits of Carnmore and Brochderg in this range reach 

 1080 feet in height. The eastern side slopes down in general gradually 

 to the high plain of the county Monaghan, being skirted on that side 

 by a gently undulating country, containing several small lakes, bogs, 

 and marshes, and drained by the Finn River, which carries all the 

 waters of the eastern slope into Lough Erne. The broad round 

 summits of these mountains and a great portion of the eastern slope 

 are bleak and barren, quite unsheltered and treeless ; the surface 

 presents only coarse hungry mountain pasture, bare rocks, or 

 undrained bogs, resting on clay, and covered with stunted heath. 

 The descent on the western side is by a series of rapid slopes, each 

 succeeded by its level district of irregular shape and varying width, 

 so as to present a succession of natural terraces. On this side 

 cultivation is more extended. 



The basin of the Drummany River stretches out to westward from 

 the base of these mountain-) for about five miles, and extends in a 

 direction north and south of about ten miles. It maybe characterised 

 as a plain inclosed by a ring-fence of mountains except to the south- 

 ward, where it opens on Lough Erne, fine views of which are com- 

 manded from several points. There are however several low hills and 

 round outlying eminences in this plain. The land is generally good, 

 but varies considerably. In the north-west of this basin is the small 

 village of Tempo, near which is Tempo House, formerly the seat of a 

 branch of the noble Irish family of Maguire, and now belonging to Sir 

 E. Tennent. Four miles south-east from Tempo, the pretty village of 

 Brookborongh stands on a Blight elevation at the western foot of the 

 Lismalore Hills, an offshoot of the Brochderg Mountain. About two 

 miles north of Brookborough is Colebrooke House, situated in an 

 extensive well-wooded demesne. Colebrooke House, the finest mansion 

 in this part of the county, was erected by the late Sir Henry Brooke, 

 and is built of a beautiful white freestone found in the southern part 

 of the Slieve-Beagh Mountains. The main branch of the Drummany 

 River rises in the northern part of these mountains, and runs with 

 rapid winding course towards the west till it enters the Colebrooke 

 demesne, whence it runs southward, and about a mile to the west of 

 Brookborough and through Maguire's Bridge : about four miles below 

 this place the river falls into Lough Erne. This river, as well as all 

 the streams in the county and the lake itself, is subject to floods. To 

 the west of this river, between Brookborough and Lisbellaw, there is 

 a very extensive tract of bog, containing Lough Eyes and some 

 smaller lakes. 



The immediate neighbourhood of Lough Erne, all the way from 

 Enniskillen along the north shore of Upper Lough Erne to the con- 

 fines of Cavan, presents a flat district of great fertility, with here and 

 there small tracts of bog and sedgy swamps, backed by a country of 

 hills and dales, which contains some of the best corn and grass land 

 in the county. Of the islands on the lake mention must be made of 

 the large island of Belleisle, which is joined to the north shore by a 

 causeway and bridge. The first Earl of Rosse built a fine mansion on 

 this island, portions of which still remain in the residence of the pre- 

 sent proprietor, who is a descendant of Dr. Porter, formerly bishop of 

 C'logher. This island ia situated nearly opposite the mouth of the 

 Arney, and commands fine views of lake and mountain scenery ; the 

 beautiful green and lofty hill of Knockninny, on the south shore of 

 Lough Erne, forms a much-admired feature of the landscape. Crum 

 Castle, a mansion of the Earl of Erne, situated on a peninsula of 

 Lough Erne, about 4 miles S. from Newtownbutler, near the south- 

 eastern extremity of the lake, and near it the remains of old Crum 

 Castle, are worthy of remark for the extent and beauty of the well- 

 wooded demesne in which they stand, and which includes several 

 islands. Further south-east, on the borders of Cavan, there is the 

 handsome residence and grounds of Castle Saunderson, a short way 

 from which, on the road to Lisnaskea, is a large district of barren bog. 

 The interior of the county, from the hamlet of Douough to Newtown- 

 butler and Clones, presents an undulating surface of pasture and 

 arable ground. 



The county is traversed by excellent roads. Along the north and 

 south shores of the Upper Lake run two mail-coach roads, which 

 diverge from Butler's Bridge in the county of Cavan, and unite in 

 killen, whence a fine road runs to Ballyshannon and the west 

 const of Ireland. Opening on these three lines of road are numerous 

 others connecting Knniokillen with all parts of the county. The 

 Armagh, Belfast, and Enniskillen mail-coach travels by the main 



road along the north shore as far as the neighbourhood of Newtowu- 

 butler, whence a road runs to the eastward, leading to Clones and 

 Monaghan. Even the mountain roads of the county are good, but 

 many of them are impracticable for carriages. A railroad to connect 

 Enniskillen with Londonderry is in course of formation, and is open 

 between Londonderry and Dromore : other lines are in progress 

 or projected to join Enniskilleu with Newry, Dundalk, and 

 Dublin. 



Otology, <fcc. Upper Lough Erne lies on a bed of blue clay, and is 

 surrounded on all sides by limestone strata. The Dowbally Moun- 

 tains, and the mountains south of the lower lake, are composed chiefly 

 of sandstone and limestone. Where the limestone prevails in the 

 south and south-west of the county, there occur numerous cavities 

 and subterraneous water channels. The Roogagh River, which brings 

 down the waters of several small lakes and tributary streams to Lough 

 Melvin, is absorbed in the rock, and emerges, after running a distance 

 of about 30 perches underground. In like manner the Claddagh and 

 several brooks which run into Lough Erne from the Sheau North, 

 dip underground in their course. A natural bridge of rock crosses a 

 stream which forms part of the boundary of the district on the south ; 

 and throughout the central parts, caves (as near Ballicassidy) and 

 deep holes in the rock are of very frequent occurrence. The Toppit 

 Mountains consist of yellow sandstone and conglomerate, but lime- 

 stone lies along the lower slopes, and in most parts of the county the 

 isolated hills adjacent to the higher ranges contain limestone, sand, 

 and gravel. The Slieve-Beagh Mountains are famous towards their 

 southern extremity for a beautiful white sandstone, said to be supe- 

 rior to Portland stone ; but these mountains consist chiefly of millstone 

 grit, which is found of superior quality at Carumore, and yellow and 

 old red-sandstone : the limestone strata however lie close upon the 

 range on the eastern and western sides. On the western slopes of 

 the Slieve-Beagh, traces of coal and iron have been found, and also a 

 slaty-blue clay resembling rotten limestone, which becomes readily 

 pulverisable on exposure to the air, and forms good manure for moory 

 soils. Marl and potter's-clay are found in several places. 



Climate, Soil, Agriculture, ti'C. The climate is very moist, but mild 

 and healthy, except in the neighbourhood of Upper Lough Erne, 

 where, in low districts, marsh fever sometimes prevails in the summer 

 and autumn. The prevailing winds are the west, south-west, and 

 south ; the west winds blow at times with tremendous violence, 

 uprooting trees, and sweeping away the roofs off the houses. The soil 

 iu the low grounds is a rich deep loam, in some places peat, resting 

 on a subsoil of clay ; the sandstone districts have mostly a cold thin 

 soil ; in the limestone tracts the soil is generally good, and easily 

 worked. Improved methods of industry have been to some extent 

 introduced. The chief crops are oats, wheat, potatoes, turnips, flax, 

 and hay. The number of acres under crop in 1851 was 107,735, 

 namely : Wheat, 2643 ; oats, 43,845 ; barley, here, and rye, 5584 ; 

 beans and peas, 1010; potatoes, 13,059; turnips, 5724; mangel 

 wurzel, roots, and cabbage, 2074 ; vetches and other green crops, 498 ; 

 flax, 2800; rape, 30; and meadow and clover, 30,468. On 15,560 

 holdings in 1851 there were 6518 horses, 4749 mules and asses, 88,651 

 cattle, 11,371 sheep, 17,843 pigs, 443 deer, 3055 goats, and 195,674 

 head of poultry. The county exports oats, butter, eggs, and some 

 other articles of agricultural produce ; the principal markets for wheat 

 and other descriptions of corn are Euniskillen and Lisnaskea. The 

 fields are inclosed by hedges in the low country, on the mountains by 

 walls of loose stone. The farm-buildings, which are generally erected 

 by the tenant, are protty good ; but the mud hut and the cabin of 

 peat sods, the residences of the poorer classes, meet the eye in all 

 directions. Except in the neighbourhood of Lough Erne, and to some 

 distance round Enniskilleu, the county has a bare, cold appearance, 

 in consequence of the paucity of timber-trees, which are grown chiefly 

 on the demesnes of large proprietors. The county ia entirely agricul- 

 tural : the only manufactures worth naming are confined to Enuiskilleu ; 

 linen is woven for domestic use. 



Diviriont, Tomis, <kc. Fermanagh county is comprised in the 

 diocese of Clogher, with the exception of the district which extends 

 eastward from the Arney and Lough Macuean ; this belongs to the 

 diocese of Kilmore. The county is divided into 8 baronies : 1. Clan- 

 awley, which lies between the Sillies River on one side and the Arney 

 and Lough Macnean on the other ; 2. Magheraboy, which includes 

 the rest of the western division of the county from the left bank of 

 the Sillies and the south shore of the lower lake ; 3. Kuockninuy, 

 which extends between the Arney and the Woodford rivers; 4. Coole, 

 embracing the south-eastern district; 5. Clankelly, which includes 

 the district between the ridge of the Slieve-Beagh Mountains, in the 

 county of Monaghau; 6. Magherastephana, which is generally coinci- 

 dent with the basin of the Drummany River ; 7. Tyrkennedy, which 

 extends from Enniskilleu northward to Tyrone, including both slopes 

 of the Toppit Mountains ; 8. Lurg, which comprises the north-west 

 of the county. 



There are few towns of consequence in Fermanagh : ENNISKILLEX, 

 the county town, LISNASKEA, and LOWTHEHSTOWN, are described in 

 separate articles : the following places we notice here : 



Bellcek, population of the village 228 in 1851, is situated on the 

 right bank of the river Erne, about 2^ miles below the point where 

 the lower lake narrows to the dimensions of a river. The remarkable 



