Partitions. Partition studs should be set 12 inches on centers and firmly secured top and bottom ; the lathing 



should be Steelcrete "A" Expanded Metal lath if applied on one side of the studs only, for a solid plaster 

 partition; the diamond mesh Steelcrete Expanded Metal lath if the studs are to be lathed on both sides. 



The lath should be securely wired or clamped to the studs every 4 inches and sheets should be lapped 

 YI inch on their long sides and 2 inches on their ends. Steelcrete Expanded Metal solid partitions may be 

 plastered with cement mortar, patent hard plaster, wood pulp or asbestos plasters, while hollow partitions 

 may be plastered with lime mortar as well as with the plasters specified above. 



Outside Outside walls should be furred with small angles or channels 12 inch on centers and lathed with 



Wall Furring diamond mesh Steelcrete Expanded Metal lath. If the wall is at all rough it is best to first fur the walls 

 '" with horizontal angles or channels 3 feet or 4 feet apart vertically to line the wall and give a true, 

 plump surface to receive the vertical furrings, which should be attached to them by wiring or bolting. 



Outside 

 Walls. 



Outside walls may be lathed with Steelcrete "A" Expanded Metal lath directly on the outside board- 

 ing, the wide strands being sufficient to give a thorough clinch to the mortar. Some architects prefer to 

 omit the outside boarding and staple the "A" lath directly to the outside faces of the studs, and after the 

 scratch coat of plaster is applied from the outside, to put on a heavy backing-up coat on the inside of the 

 lath between the studding, to entirely encase the lath in cement and give a clinch for the mortar on the 

 studs which will give a diagonal bracing and stiffening to the walls more than equivalent to the outside 

 boarding which was omitted. In this case, it is necessary only to put trusses over openings in the usual 

 manner and diagonal braces at the corners of the house to keep the frame in shape before plastering, and 

 the solid cement wall will more than supply the rest of the stiffening necessary, at the same time making 

 a building more weather-tight than any form of outside wall except masonry construction. The 

 omission of the boarding removes the danger of cracks in the plaster due to shrinkage of the boards and 

 further precautions against cracking are : to fur the lath from the studs with small iron rods, or flat bars 

 on edge, over which the lath may be stapled or to which it may be wired. In case outside boarding is 

 used, the lath should be furred off with wood strips or round or flat bars; but even then it is necessary 

 to so thoroughly work the mortar through the meshes of the lath as to entirely enclose all of the metal. 

 Outside walls should be plastered with best Portland cement mortar, using clean sand, and the scratch 

 coat should contain sufficient hair to give a good clinch on the lathing, while the finish coat should be a 

 rich mixture of cement and send in order to present a hard, durable surface to the weather. If the wall 

 is to be half-timbered, the best method for the half-timbering is to project an inch, more or less, from the 

 face of the plaster and put on grounds with which the plaster will finish flush and then nail board, of the 

 thickness desired to the grounds, lapping over the plaster a half inch on each side of the grounds, and it 

 is better to have the boards rebated on the back to prevent warping. This method prevents shrinkage 

 cracks showing up between the half-timbering strips. If the half-timbering is flush with and projects only 

 slightly from the plaster, the edges of the boards should be beveled so that the exposed face is wider than 

 the back. 



