FASHODA 



June, 1798, saw the production 

 of Le Journal des Dames et des 

 Modes by Selleque and Madame 

 Clement. They were joined by 

 Pierre Lamesangere, a professor of 

 literature and philosophy who had 

 fallen on evil times. Two years 

 later, on the death of Selleque, 

 Lamesangere took entire control, 

 frequenting the theatres and all 

 fashionable rendezvous in order to 

 study the dresses. The journal 

 was published at intervals of five 

 days, with one coloured plate of a 

 woman in an attractive gown, and 

 on the 15th of the month there 

 were two plates. It lasted until the 

 death of Lamesangere in 1829. 

 History Reflected in Fashions 



The vast fortune he amassed 

 caused others to follow in his foot- 

 steps, and in a short time appeared 

 Le Petit Courrier des Dames, Le 

 Follet and La Psyche ; also La 

 Mode, which was under the patron- 

 age of the duchess of Berri. 



Conquests have always in- 

 fluenced the modes. The Roman 

 dominion of England was respon- 

 sible for the abandonment of the 

 braccae (breeches) and the adoption 

 of the Roman tunic. To the Cru- 

 sader is due the introduction of the 

 taste for things Oriental. The con- 

 quests of Edward III were re- 

 sponsible for the French fashions 

 in England. The " blistered " 

 modes followed the defeat of the 

 duke of Burgundy in 1497, for it 

 was a compliment to the van- 

 quished. The Wars of the Roses 

 robbed fashion of all gaiety. The 

 prosperity of the reign of Henry 

 VIII was reflected in the richness of 

 attire ; the persecutions of Mary's 

 reign had the opposite effect, and 

 the anti - Catholics showed their 

 disapproval in their clothes. In 

 Queen Elizabeth's reign the mag- 

 nificence of raiment, for men as 

 well as women, was unprecedented. 



This was followed by the Puritan 

 influence. The French Revolution 

 sounded the knell of gaiety in mas- 

 culine dress. Women adopted the 

 Athenian costume, as best ex- 

 pressing the feelings of the day, 

 and the harvest of this diaphanous 

 attire in mid -winter was consump- 

 tion. Shortly afterwards public 

 feeling became favourable to com- 

 mon .sense in clothes whereby 

 health received due consideration. 

 This resulted in the disappearance 

 of the waspish waist and tight 

 shoes, and the adoption of wool or 

 wool mixture underwear. In 1887 

 began a new era of life in London. 

 Before that date all entertaining 

 had been done at home. Dining in 

 public resulted in women giving 

 moreconsiderationto their toilettes. 



Cycling was introduced in Paris 

 and became the rage in England 



3093 



about 1896. Golf followed and 

 caused an improvement in tailor- 

 made costumes. In 1896 the Loco- 

 motives on Highways Act became 

 law and the motor arrived. The 

 South African War in 1899 put a 

 check on fashion, but it revived after 

 the coronation of Edward VII in 

 1902, when daylight drawing-rooms 

 were abolished. In 1906 came the re- 

 vival of roller-skating. In 1919 the 

 aeroplane began to be used as a 

 general means of locomotion, and 

 for this last-mentioned event the 

 notable dressmakers on both sides 

 of the Channel were already de- 

 signing costumes in 1918. 



A good income may be made by 

 fashion writers as well as artists. 

 The former should have a thorough 

 knowledge of the history of cos- 

 tume. There is no better train- 

 ing for this work than a subordinate 

 position in the office of a paper, 

 where a knowledge of what is 

 needed, as well as of the pitfalls to 

 be avoided, is acquired. 



The fashion artist must be a 

 clever draughtswoman, and must 

 possess a peculiar qualification 

 that may be called the " dress 

 sense." There are many schools 

 that teach fashion drawing. This 

 they are able to do in a highly 

 satisfactory manner provided that 

 the student has talent and is able 

 to draw. They are an fait regard- 

 ing the work of reproduction for 

 various kinds of papers, and the 

 best methods of accentuating the 

 essential points of the article to be 

 sketched. See Costume ; also illus. 

 p. 1702. 



Bibliography. Dresses and Decora- 

 tions of the Middle Ages, 2 vols., 

 H. Shaw, 1843 ; A Cyclopaedia of 

 Costume (53 B.c.-18th cent.), J. R. 

 Planche, 1876-79 ; Costume in Eng- 

 land, a History of Dress from the 

 Earliest Period till the close of the 

 18th Cent., F. W. Fairholt, 3rd ed. 

 1885 ; Le Costume Historique, 6 

 vols., A. Racinet, 1888 ; Mesdames 

 nos Ai'eules, A. Robida, 1891, Eng. 

 trans. Yester-Year, Ten Centuries 

 of Toilet, C. Hoey, 1892 ; A History 

 of English Dress from the Saxon 

 Period to the Present Day, 2 vols., 

 G. Hill, 1893. 



Fashoda, NOW KODOK. Town of 

 the Anglo -Egyptian Sudan. It is 

 situated on the W. bank of the 

 Bahr-el-Abiad or White Nile, 470 

 m. S. of Khartum. The climate is 

 extremely hot and the place is in- 

 fested with mosquitoes. On the 

 caravan route from Kordofan, it 

 has several government buildings. 



Fashoda Affair. Name given 

 to an episode which occurred just 

 after the British reconquest of the 

 Sudan in 1898. A small French ex- 

 pedition under Major (afterwards 

 General) Marchand made itsway up 

 the Niger to Fashoda, which was oc- 

 cupied on Sept. 7, in spite of the fact 



that in 1895 the British Government 

 had given formal notice that the 

 Nile valley was within its sphere of 

 influence. Sir Herbert Kitchener, 

 who was then sirdar, went at once 

 to Fashoda and asked Marchand 

 to withdraw. The French officer 

 refused, but on Nov. -5 after 

 further negotiations, his govern- 

 ment ordered him to give up the 

 post. By an agreement signed 

 March 21, 1899, France undertook 

 to withdraw from the Nile valley, 

 and a new boundary between the 

 areas protected by the two coun- 

 tries was outlined. The affair 

 caused a good deal of excitement 

 in both countries. 



Fassaite. Greenish variety of 

 mineral augite. It is named after 

 the Fassathal Tirol, where it was 

 first found. See Augite. 



Fast and Loose. Dishonest 

 game formerly much played by 

 gypsies and tricksters, known also 

 as prick the garter. The victim was 

 invited to push a pin or bodkin 

 through a folded belt so as to fix it 

 to the table, but the folds were so 

 disposed by the owner that on the 

 ends being pulled it came free, and 

 the stake was forfeit. From this 

 came the expression " to play fast 

 and loose," i.e. to repudiate ex- 

 pressed obligations when these 

 seem no longer convenient to 

 acknowledge. 



Fast Castle. Ruined fortress of 

 Berwickshire, Scotland. It stands 

 on a steep cliff about 3 m. N.W. of 

 St. Abb's Head, and was formerly 

 a stronghold of some importance, 

 though little now remains of the 

 buildings. It was to Fast Castle 

 that James VI of Scotland was to 

 have been brought by the Gowrie 

 conspirators, and it is described as 

 Wolf's Crag by Scott in The Bride 

 of Lammermoor. 



Fast Colours. Broadly speak- 

 ing, colours which behave satis- 

 factorily in wear for a reasonable 

 time say, six months. Colours 

 should be fast against sunlight and 

 water, rubbing, the action of street 

 mud, and of perspiration. Colours 

 are frequently required to be fast 

 against specific finishing or manu- 

 facturing processes, e.g. against 

 milling and potting. See Dyes. 



Fasti (Lat. fas, divine law). 

 Latin word meaning lawful, ap- 

 plied to those days (dies fasti) in 

 the year on which legal business 

 could be done, as opposed to days 

 on which it could not (dies nefasti). 

 The word then came to mean a 

 calendar. Such calendars were of 

 two kinds : Fasti diurni, a calen- 

 dar indicating religious festivals, 

 market days, etc. ; Fasti anna'es, 

 a calendar giving the names of 

 the magistrates for the year and 

 the chief events. 



