Ulpves. Processes in the manufacture. 1. Preparing and, 2, stretching the 

 skins before cutting into shape. 3. Brushing dye into the skins. 4. Press and 

 die (the latter shown in foreground) for cutting out. 5. Finishing and, 6, stitch- 

 ing silk on the backs 



Lamb glove and Cape glove, 

 when advanced to the stage of tan- 



Suede leather is generally inferior 

 in strength, if not in appearance, 



on the grain side. 



The chamois and the doeskin 



As early as 1 190 the glove-makers 

 of France had formed themselves 

 into a company with S. Anne as 

 their patron, while in Scotland the 

 glove-makers of Perth were a 

 chartered corporation in 11G5. In 

 England the glovers obtained a 

 charter for their company in 1038. 



Names and Materials 

 In considering the glove trade, 

 it is well to have a clear idea of the 

 meaning of the various names 

 applied to gloves of various quali- 

 ties. The name Cape, one of the 

 first to be met with, was originally 

 used to designate a glove from the 

 Cape of Good Hope. The skin is 

 large, heavy, and rather tight- 

 grained. Latterly, however, the 

 soft, pliable glove usually made 

 from sheep and lamb skins tanned 

 and dressed by the " nappa " me- 

 thod has become commercially 

 known as Cape. What was once a 

 name for a glove made from a 

 single type of skin is now the 

 designation of a glove made from 

 leather of a particular tannage. 

 The best types of these skins come 

 from the district of Kasan and the 

 Volga area in Russia. Others come 

 from Spain, Turkey, Rumania, 

 Bulgaria, Montenegro, and Serbia, 

 and to a smaller extent from some 

 other sources. The skins with the 

 finest grades of wool are normally 

 inferior for glove -making to those 

 with hairy, wiry wool. 



ning known as " in the white," are to the same types of skins dressed 

 virtually identical, except that the 

 skins that make Capes are heavier 

 and larger. It is in the finishing of commerce are both sheepskins, 

 and colouring processes that the or parts of sheepskins, tanned and 

 distinction occurs. The dressing dressed as chamois or doeskins, 

 and colouring which complete the Dealers and merchants in sheep- 

 tannage of Capes is done by the skins find it advantageous to split 

 " drum " or " dipped " process, the skins edgewise, thus providing 

 and the skin is coloured all the way two thinner skins. The upper part 

 through ; whereas leather for the with the grain surface is termed a 

 so-called lamb glove has the colour " skiver," and the lower a " flesher," 

 " brushed " on the grain surface and it is from these flesher sheep- 

 only, leaving the flesh side or the skins that the leathers known as 

 inside of the glove white. The chamois and doeskin are produced, 

 nappa tannage is an alum process, All gloves are practically sub- 

 and besides there is a chrome tan- jected to the same process. After 

 nage which has the merit of being they have been stamped out the 

 washable in water of any tempera- sewing process is carried out by 

 ture up to boiling point. machines. The first machine in- 

 After much experiment a tan- vented for glove sewing was put on 

 nage was perfected for the skin of * ne market about 1875. 

 the Arabian haired sheep, resulting British Developments 

 in the production of the strong, Not only in output, but in the 

 soft, and velvet-like finished Mocha quality and finish of the cloth 

 glove. The Mocha sheep is a dis- from which gloves are made, British 

 tinct type, not a species resulting makers have made rapid progress, 

 from cross-breeding between the and the best fabrics of home pro- 

 Mocha goat and the woolled sheep, duction are equal to any pre-war 

 as is frequently supposed. No other foreign goods. Particularly is this 

 glove passes through so many pro- true of the " sueded " cloth, a 

 cesses in tanning and dressing as fabric so finished as to give it the 

 the Mocha, and while the ap- velvety feel and appearance of 

 pearance of the finished leather sueded leather ; and of " Duplex " 

 somewhat resembles suede, it is .cloth, which is made by sticking 



in fact very different in character. 

 Mocha is " friezed," not " sueded." 

 The finished or outer side surface 

 of the gloves is on the grain, not 

 the flesh side of the leather. The 



together two single cloths by pro- 

 cesses which are more or less a 

 secret. Before the war these 

 cloths were almost entirely a 

 German monopoly, but machinery 



friezing process removes the grain, has been produced which gives 

 leaving much of the strength of the results equal to any German 

 outer skin. The name suede is fabrics. The manufacture of dye- 

 applied to a glove of leather when stuffs had also become a German 

 subjected to the sueding process, monopoly, so that, not only were 



