HEAD-DRESS 



3894 



HEADQUARTERS 



carried across the Pacific to 

 America. There they occurred 

 among the ancient Maya, Aymara 

 and other peoples, their alien 

 origin being confirmed by their 

 absence from the Eskimo, Atha- 

 pascan and Algonquin regions. 

 Forehead-flattening was observed 

 by the Natchez and some N.W. 

 Pacific tribes such as the Chinook ; 

 S. American Indians still practise 

 conical deformation here and there. 

 Cranial disfigurements are not 

 transmitted, and do not appear to 

 affect mental vigour. 



Head-dress. Anything worn 

 upon the hair or pate. Head- 

 ornament, amuletic or decorative, 

 was probably devised by pre- 

 historic man prior to protective 

 coverings. In an upper palaeo- 

 lithic cave at Mentone a male skull 

 was found, adorned with stag's 

 teeth, fish-bones and pierced shells. 

 On Spanish cave-portraits horns 

 and feathers are shown. Fur caps 

 may also have been used in that 

 age ; a neolithic site in Denmark 

 has yielded a woollen cap. 



Primitive forms of head-dress, 

 governed by the formation of the 

 hair and climatic conditions, 

 include dressed hair, decorated 

 hair, headbands, chaplets, brim- 

 less caps, brimmed hats, hoods and 

 veils. The hair may be dyed; 

 stiffened with protective materials, 

 such as S. African ochre and grease, 

 Upper Congo soot and palm-oil, 

 Latuka interwoven bark or twine ; 

 or shorn and replaced by a wig. 

 Decoration is widespread ; with 

 teeth or bushy animal tails, as in 

 Australia; flowers, as in Polynesia 

 and Burma ; and leaves or gems. 



Head-bands of skin, bone or 

 fibre, used by Andamanese, Aus- 

 tralians, Bushmen and Fuegians, 

 suggest an ultimate palaeolithic 

 origin, and passed in the higher 

 civilizations into turbans and dia- 

 dems. Sometimes employed for the 

 suspension of burdens, they permit 

 of the attachment of beads, cowries, 

 rams' horns, wood shavings as 

 with the Ainu and especially of 

 feathers. These form the tribal or 

 social badges of many peoples, 

 such as the ancient Egyptian and 

 modern Bari ostrich tips, Aztec 

 trogon or quezal tails, Naga horn- 

 bill tail-feathers, Papuan paradise 

 plumes, Maori huia feathers, and 

 N. American Indian eagle bonnets. 

 Chaplets of grass are -worn by 

 Malacca Sakai, flowers by Poly- 

 nesians, leaves in ancient Greece, 

 jewels in E. Tibet. 



For skull-caps Hottentot women 

 use fur, Nilotic peoples beads with 

 cowry rims, Samoan chiefs' heirs 

 fibre caps covered with* women's 

 hair. Tall hats, among the Kavi- 

 rondo, sometimes reach 6 ft. 



Broad-brimmed hats especially 

 characterise S. E. Asia. The Pana- 

 ma hat reached Central America 

 through medieval Spain and Mo- 

 rocco from pre-Christian Egypt. 

 Hoods are found among Eskimo 

 and some Malay women ; veils 

 among most Moslem women and 

 Tuareg men. From remote times 

 head-dresses have been symbols of 

 social or professional distinction, 

 whether it be the helmets of 

 warrior chiefs, the coronals of 

 married women, or those affected 

 by medicine-men, priests, head- 

 men or kings. 



The head-dress of women has 

 ranged through every degree of 

 design from simple to absurdly 

 elaborate. Among the wealthier 

 Anglo-Saxons it consisted of a 

 headrail or coverchief, often con- 

 fined by a fillet of gold and envelop- 

 ing head and shoulders and 

 descending to the knees. In the 

 14th and 15th centuries the so- 

 called steeple or horned head-dress 

 appeared ; this assumed immense 

 proportions, varying from 18 ins. 

 to 3 ft. in height. It was intro- 

 duced from France, where a 

 similar style is still worn by some 

 of the peasantry. In England this 

 was succeeded by the hood, and 

 by the bonnet of Elizabethan times. 



The reign of William III was 

 marked by the towering head- 

 dresses, or fontange, worn by 

 women. Towards 1800 enormously 

 high hair-dressing became fashion- 

 able, and a curious hood, termed a 

 calash, was introduced. This was 

 made on the lines of the hood of a 

 carriage, being supported by a 

 framework of whalebone and pulled 

 over the face by means of a string. 

 See Cap ; Costume ; Hat. 



Headfort, MARQUESS OF. Irish 

 title borne since 1800 by the family 

 of Taylour. Thomas Taylour, an 

 Irish M.P. and a landowner in 

 Meath, was made a baronet in 

 1704. His grandson, Sir Thomas, 

 was made Baron Headfort in 1760 

 and earl of Bective in 1766. The 

 2nd earl was made a marquess in 

 1800, this being one of the peerages 

 bestowed to facilitate the passing 

 of the Act of Union. In 1831 the 

 2nd marquess was made a baron 

 of the United Kingdom. Headfort 

 is in Meath, where the marquess 

 has his residence. His eldest son is 

 known as earl of Bective. 



Head-hunting. Custom among 

 some primitive peoples of slaying 

 strangers or enemies in order to 

 utilise their heads as cult-objects 

 or trophies. As developed out of 

 human sacrifice by the Austric- 

 speaking peoples of S.E. Asia and 

 its archipelagos, its animistic pur- 

 pose was partly spirit-worship, 

 partly a productive rite. Until 



recent years it was practised 

 mostly by ceremonial expeditions, 

 in Austroasia (Naga, Wa) ; Indo- 

 nesia (Dyak, Igorot, primitive 

 Formosans); Melanesia (Solomon 

 islands) ; Polynesia (Maori). Sea 

 Dyak and Formosans engrafted 

 upon it the derivative purpose of 

 qualifying for manhood and mar- 

 riage. In negro Africa Nigeria, 

 Togoland, upper Congo the cus- 

 tom presents local variations. See 

 Head Hunters: Black, White and 

 Brown, A. C. Haddon, 1901 ; Home , 

 Life of Borneo Head-hunters, W. 

 H. Furness, 1902; The Tailed 

 Head-hunters of Nigeria, A. J. N. 

 Tremearne, 1912. 



Headingley. Suburb of Leeds, 

 England. In the N. of the city, it 

 is a residential district, and has a 

 station on the N.E. Rly., and tram- 

 ways. The corporation has a pump- 

 ing station here. See Leeds. 



Headmaster. Name given in 

 Great Britain and elsewhere to the 

 principal of a public or other 

 school for boys, although a special 

 name, e.g. rector, is used hi certain 

 cases. In addition to the Head- 

 masters' Conference, there is in 

 Great Britain the incorporated 

 association of headmasters. Estab- 

 lished in 1890, and incorporated in 

 1895, this consists of many of the 

 headmasters of public secondary 

 schools in Great Britain. The 

 offices are 37, Norfolk Street, 

 Strand, London, W.C. 



Headmasters' Conference. As- 

 sociation of headmasters of 

 public schools in Great Britain. 

 Edward Thring, headmaster of 

 Uppingham, inaugurated it in 

 1869 by calling a meeting of head- 

 masters at his house to form "a 

 school society and annual confer- 

 ence." Since then meetings have 

 been held, generally every year, in 

 Jan., and matters of interest to 

 educationists discussed. In 1919 

 the conference numbered 122 mem- 

 bers. It was incorporated in 1909, 

 and the offices are at 12, King's 

 Bench Walk, Temple, London, E.G. 



Headquarters. Centre of an or- 

 ganization whence instructions are 

 supplied to subordinates, and the 

 entire enterprise controlled. In 

 military organization, most units 

 have their headquarters abbrevi- 

 ated to H.Q., which receive instruc- 

 tions from a higher H.Q. During 

 the Great War the chain of commu- 

 nication descending from general 

 headquarters (G.H.Q. ) was to army, 

 corps, division, brigade, battalion, 

 and company headquarters. Each 

 H.Q. must be in a sufficiently 

 central position behind its line to 

 control effectively the whole front 

 for which it is responsible. 



In a commercial undertaking, 

 headquarters is sometimes applied 



