556 ON THE PRICE OF TEXTILE FABRICS AND CLOTHING. 



bought by tale and not by measure, a change which seems 

 to suggest that the aft of figuring the fabric had been developed. 

 Perhaps the damascene of 1553, which was bought at so high a 

 price, may be an early instance of such improved goods. Damask 

 diaper is quoted under the year 1542. The alternus pannus of 

 1582 seems to be diapered. 



Incle, which I believe is a broad tape used for binding, is 

 occasionally found, and twice, 1535 and 1544, is bought by the 

 pound. 



The origin of the linen is frequently denoted. In the thir- 

 teenth and fourteenth centuries I have found linen from Liege 

 and Ireland, as well as some from Aylsham in Norfolk. But 

 in the fifteenth century I find Burgundy and Flanders linen first 

 in 1401, Brabant first in 1406, Irish first in 1415, Holland first 

 in 1452, Diaper first in 1461, Olsum (if this be the name of a 

 place) first in 1466. In 1486 I find the first entry of Bresell 1 , 

 i.e. Bristol cloth, a very common article afterwards. In 1494 

 occurs the first entry of Sultwich 2 cloth. In 1510 I find an 

 article described as de la Brunne; in 1512 is the first entry 

 of Normandy canvas. In 1534 I find Utnoll cloth, in 1536 

 Garnsey cloth. In 1546 I find Barras canvas, in 1548 Rayne, 

 i. e. Reynes bultel. In 1551 occurs the first entry of Northern 

 cloth, described probably as Lancashire cloth in 1555. In 1556 

 occurs the first entry of Osimbigge, soon to be, when the name 

 is more familiar, Oxenbridge linen, which was employed for 

 kitchen purposes and to clean plate. In 1563 occur Kent, 

 apparently, and Hamburgh linen. Lancashire cloth is, on the 

 whole, the cheapest. 



There are many names given to linen stuffs. The term 

 canvas is very widely used, as well to denote the coarse fabrics 

 employed for kitchen use, as for strainers, and wraps for meat, 

 as for the best quality of ordinary table and shirting linen. 

 I have referred to crest cloth. I find buckram for the first time 

 in 1414, when it is bought at a very high rate. This article 



1 Bresell may be Brussels linen, but Bristol is certainly found. 



9 Sutwiche in 1553, and Southwick in 1558, are probably the same as this. 



