566 ON THE PRICE OF TEXTILE FABRICS AND CLOTHING. 



again, there are occasionally three qualities of pannus stragulatus, 

 the best quality, one slightly inferior for the 'servants,' and one 

 a good deal cheaper for the 'boys/ It seems that the New 

 College cloth was relatively cheap, and perhaps inferior in 

 quality to that bought for the King's College fellows. 



The purchases of the latter society are well illustrated in 

 1450, when the account is given in detail. The Provost 

 receives twelve yards at 45-, a yard we must remember that 

 the dress of our forefathers was flowing and ample 1 ; the vice- 

 provost and the seniors each eight yards, at 3.$-. ; thirty-eight 

 graduate fellows, each eight yards at is. 6d. ; seventeen non- 

 graduates, each eight yards at 2s. id. ; ten conducts, each six 

 yards at is. id. ; fifteen clerks and valets, each three and a half 

 yards at is. ; and twenty-six choristers and garciones each two 

 and a half yards at is. lod. The cost of the warden's clothing 

 was therefore 48^., of each of the seniors 24^-., of the graduates 

 2,os., of the non-graduates ijs. 4//., of the conducts 13^., of the 

 clerks 7^., of the choristers 4^. *jd. ; and the total charge to the 

 college for all these liveries was So iSs. lod. But besides, 

 they bought forty-six yards of another kind of cloth at 3^., i.e. 

 6 i8j., and fifteen of a cheaper at is. id.> i us. 6d. 



The additional purchase of forty-six yards was of a kind 

 called ' Mustardevilers 2 ,' occurring here for the first time, but 

 also afterwards, as in 1454, 1457, 1461, 1486, 1488, 1489. 

 After 1503 I do not find it named in the sixteenth century, 

 though the word is said to have existed till the reign of 

 Elizabeth. 



Cloth, after it was purchased, was shrunk, 'aquatus'; and 

 shorn, < tonsusj at the cost of the purchaser. Charges for these 

 processes are given in the years 1447, J 535> J 53^ I 5^ 1 - 



Pannus stragulatus appears to have been variegated, pannus 

 planus or strictus to have been of one colour. ' Besides this we 



1 Gascoigne (Loci e Libro Veritatum, p. 145) is greatly offended by the tight-fitting 

 dress which had become a fashion with the upper classes in his time. 



2 This article is cloth, manufactured at Montivilliers, in medieval Latin Monasterium 

 Villare, a town near Harfleur in Normandy. 



