WINE MAKING. 429 



the finest and most delicate wine is wanted. 

 The juice that runs from the marc by its own 

 weight is called the &quot; first running,&quot; and what 

 is really the &quot; first pressing &quot; is the &quot; second 

 running.&quot; It is not safe to mix different kinds 

 of must, unless they are all good ; when this is 

 the case, one may be used to impart flavor or 

 color to another, or for some similar purpose. 

 In pressing, the marc becomes hard, and forms 

 what is called &quot; cheese.&quot; This is cut down at 

 the side from time to time, and the parings 

 placed on the top of the &quot; cheese &quot; for further 

 pressing, so as to secure all the juice possible. 



Racking Its object is to transfer the wine 

 from one vessel to another in such a way as to 

 prevdfc the access of air, and at the same time 

 not disturb the lees which have settled at the 

 bottom. There are various contrivances for do 

 ing this, some of which are expensive ; but if 

 bought, directions for their use accompany them. 

 In Europe, Hilton s is thought to be one of the 

 best. While the wine is running at the bot 

 tom, air must be admitted gradually at the top 

 or bung, or the disturbance will be so great as 

 to muddy the wine. The siphon, however, is 

 often used, and it is both simple and good. It 

 is only a tube with arms of unequal length. 



