SOFT CHEESES. 207 
is placed in a form in a thin layer, and over the top of the layer is 
strewn a quantity of powdered, moldy bread with its thousands of 
spores. Over this is placed another layer of curd with more 
mold spores; then a third layer of curd over all. The mold is thus 
planted within the cheese. The whole is then pressed by moderate 
pressure in a form. After a few days the cheese becomes hard 
enough to be removed from the form and is next placed upon a 
machine which punches it full of holes by means of small needles. 
The purpose of this is to allow air to enter into the center of the 
cheese, thus furnishing the molds in the center with the air they need 
for growth. The cheese is then put into the ripening room where 
the molds develop, growing primarily within the cheese. As 
the molds grow they develop a peculiarly peppery, piquant taste, 
which is characteristic of the Roquefort cheese. Just before the 
cheese is fully ripe it tastes bitter; but this taste disappears as the 
final flavor develops. A good Roquefort cheese is only possible 
when there is a luxuriant growth of these molds within the cheese, 
no surface growth being allowed. 
The successful manufacture of the Roquefort cheese in the 
United States is yet to come. There seems to be no reason why 
a cheese cannot be made in this country which, if ripened by the 
Roquefort mold, will have the Roquefort flavor; but it is not likely 
that a real Roquefoit can ever be made in America because, the 
typical Roquefort is made of sheep's milk, and it is doubtful if 
Americans will ever be content to raise sheep and milk them. Stilton 
and Gorgonzola cheeses are, however, made from cow's milk and 
ripened by the same mold that is found in the Roquefort. These 
cheeses can certainly be made in this country. Stilton has already 
been made in Canada, and there is no reason why its manufacture 
cannot be undertaken and developed in the United States. 
The Limburger Cheese. This represents a type of cheese in 
which molds play no part in the ripening, but bacteria are the 
primary and perhaps the sole agents. 
After being drained in a mold until firm enough to be handled 
the cheeses are placed in a ripening cellar. Every few days they 
are removed from the shelves and rubbed over with some liquid, 
