282 VEGETABLE GARDENING 



six seeds should be put in each hill. The hills should 

 be eight feet apart each way for the longer-growing kinds, 

 and five feet apart for the bush sorts. The plants should 

 be thinned out after they are established so as to allow 

 two plants to each hill. They are affected by the same 

 insect pests as the cucumber, and the same remedies are 

 in order. In addition, however, to these, some kinds are 

 affected in the Eastern states by a borer that works in 

 the stem, and by the squash bug. (See chapter on insects.) 



The early varieties of the squash are sometimes started 

 in hotbeds or cold frames to advance them and thus 

 avoid serious injury from the striped beetle. 



Harvesting. Summer squash are not grown for storing 

 and are not desirable for table use except before the skin 

 hardens, when they are used entire. Winter squash are 

 excellent for use in a green state but are not gathered 

 for storing until the skin is hard. They should always 

 be gathered upon the approach of frosty weather, as a 

 very little frost injures their keeping qualities, although 

 the injury may not be apparent when gathered. It is a 

 good plan in harvesting them to place them in piles in the 

 field, leaving them exposed to the sun during the day 

 and covering them with the vines or other material every 

 frosty night until they are thoroughly dried and the skins 

 have become hard and flinty. In gathering, cut the stem 

 off not over an inch from the squash, for if the stem is 

 left on it is likely to be used as a handle and be broken 

 off and thus leave a spot that is very sure to start to rotting. 

 Squashes should be handled with the greatest care if they 

 are to be kept successfully, and each one should be placed 

 in the wagon or on the shelf separately ; if handled roughly 

 they will not keep. They should be carried in a spring 

 wagon or on a bed of hay or straw. 



