i88i] A JOURNEY IN THE HEjAZ 489 



public functionary, and it is only within the last few 

 weeks that Omar Effendi has received from the Porte 

 the dignity of Pasha. But in practice he is the great man 

 of the town, and uses his opportunities with a cynical 

 candour to serve his master and himself. For example, 

 the Mecca post is first delivered at his house, and it is no 

 secret that it is his custom to open any letter containing 

 information he desires to be master of. But the Wakeel 

 of the Shereef has at his disposal much more formidable 

 engines than this. The Hejaz roads are never safe unless 

 it be the pleasure of the Shereef that the Bedouins be 

 quiet, so that the confidential agent of the Shereef has 

 the whole inland communications of the country practi 

 cally in his hand. It is not very long ago that an Indian 

 Nawab, who proposed to go up from Yanbo to Medina 

 with an escort of his own people, and escape paying 

 bakshish, was ignominiously defeated by Omar Naseef . 

 Day after day the roads were reported closed, but as soon 

 as the Nawab came to terms and disbursed a handsome 

 sum, it was discovered that the way to Medina was perfectly 

 safe. A position of such influence offers many oppor 

 tunities of gain to a man who does not even affect to have 

 scruples. Traders think it wise to give him a share in 

 all manner of enterprises, especially in the lucrative 

 pilgrim trade. He draws his share of profits, and forgets 

 to pay upon losses. If he wants money for a speculation, 

 he asks a temporary loan, and keeps the money without 

 interest as long as is convenient for him. Such practices 

 as these are the perquisites of his office, and have enabled 

 him to erect the finest house in Jeddah, in which he lives 

 in great style, surrounded by the private provisions for 

 sensual enjoyment, on which rather than on social enter 

 tainments and open amusements the wealthy Arab loves 

 to spend his riches. He has, of course, many enemies, 

 and his position is far from secure. It is maintained by 

 constant intrigue, which makes it necessary for him to 

 know everything, and have his hand in everything. It 



