i88i] A JOURNEY IN THE HEJAZ 507 



silver case, with a row of seven little powder-flasks, 

 each holding two or three charges, behind it a silver 

 powder-horn of quaint form, and on the other side a 

 silver - mounted pocket for bullets. A smaller horn for 

 the priming was hung from the shoulder by a belt enriched 

 with silver bosses. These gorgeous accoutrements, from 

 the hereditary armoury of the Shereef, were, however, 

 for show rather than use. The real weapon was an 

 American breech - loading carbine slung to the saddle, 

 the cartridges for which were carried in a plain leather 

 bag. The obsolete accoutrements served the purpose 

 of a uniform, the silver dirk, when worn by any 

 but a great man, immediately declaring its bearer a 

 follower of the Emir. A prettier uniform can hardly 

 be conceived than these brilliant white garments, over 

 laid with great masses of open silver work and 

 bright dashes of colour in the silken embroideries and 

 tassels, in contrast to the black skins of the wearers. 

 Hamid, however, used to produce an effective variation 

 by wearing a soft orange and yellow head shawl, and a 

 very short scarlet jacket over his tob. In virtue of 

 these splendours and a certain experience of the world, 

 gained by a voyage to Marseilles in the incongruous 

 function of a stoker, he took slight precedence of Adrubbu, 

 and filled the responsible office of cook for the company, 

 while his comrade pounded the coffee beans and rolled 

 cigarettes. Our fifth camel was shared between them, 

 and they took their turns in walking or riding as radeef . 



I have now introduced the reader to our whole company, 

 and as the ceremony has been somewhat tedious, their 

 further acquaintance must be reserved for another letter. 



III. THE MECCA ROAD 



The city of Jeddah has three landward gates the 

 Medina gate to the north, the Yemen gate to the south, 

 and the Mecca gate, facing the east ; but all caravans 



