i88i] A JOURNEY IN THE HEjAZ 571 



and that the obstacles in the way of a real exploration of 

 the Hejaz are not insuperable. It would probably be 

 necessary to settle for some time at Taif , and hire a house, 

 making this the centre of exploration. It might be safer 

 to go when the Shereef and Waly are themselves at Taif 

 at least, Hosein declared that then there would not be 

 the same danger from the Bedouins as he avers to exist 

 now. The Shereef, who is a liberal-minded man, like 

 his brother and predecessor, has no dislike to Europeans, 

 whom he probably prefers to the Turks. But he has 

 sometimes to affect prejudices which he does not feel, 

 in deference to the tyranny of public opinion. When 

 the late Shereef received the captain of a French ship 

 of war at Taif, he did not venture to entertain him until 

 after the evening prayers, lest the people should say 

 he was casting away religion. Certain scruples, then, 

 would certainly have to be respected, and certain pre 

 cautions employed, but, with ordinary prudence and 

 tact, one might make friends everywhere, and visit almost 

 any part of the country. It would, of course, be essential 

 to conform to the habits and manner of the people, for, 

 as the Arabic proverb says, &quot; When you come to their 

 dwelling conform to their ways, or if not go and leave 

 them.&quot; 



IX. THE ARABS OF THE HEJAZ 



The town of Taif is the farthest point at which the 

 Turks hold any real authority in the Hejaz. Here they 

 have nominally a complete official system. The Waly 

 visits the place in the summer, and brings his bodyguard. 

 There is a Turkish police, commanded by a very intelligent 

 officer whose acquaintance I made. There is also a 

 Mohafiz or governor of the town, and a Cady who is 

 nominated by the Turkish Cady at Mecca, and changed 

 with him every two years. The Cady is interpreter 

 of the law based on the Koran and traditions. He is 



