36 FRUIT AND KITCHEN GARDEN. 



The next if the subsoil be indifferent, is the confining the 

 trees to the good surface soil, by the formation of a bottom 

 impervious to their roots. This is sometimes done with 

 stone-shivers and lime-rubbish, or with coal-ashes and clay, 

 compacted by treading with the feet, and beating with the 

 back of a spade. Loudon recommends successive layers, 

 an inch thick, of clean gravel, pulverized earth, and then 

 gravel, well watered and firmly compressed by means of a 

 heavy roller. Good soil to the depth of two feet and a 

 half, or three feet, is placed over this impervious bottom. 

 Three-fourths rich loam, and one- fourth light sandy earth, 

 form a mixture congenial to the generality of fruit-trees. 

 In selecting the soil, regard may be had to the particular 

 trees which are to cover different portions of the wall. 

 Thus a heavy soil may be allotted to pears and plums ; 

 loam of a medium character, inclining to be strong, to 

 peaches, nectarines, and apricots ; and a lighter earth to 

 cherries and figs. Above all, care should be taken to ren 

 der the borders sufficiently rich and substantial. Whilst 

 every skilful horticulturist may, in various ways, reduce 

 the luxuriance of his trees, nothing can compensate for ex 

 treme poverty in the soil. The same principle will dictate 

 moderation in cropping wall- borders with culinary vegeta 

 bles ; a practise in which gardeners are apt to exceed from 

 a desire to furnish very early crops of peas, turnips, cab 

 bage, or potatoes. Lettuce, endive, or small sallad plants, 

 do little harm. 



Orchards. &quot;Within the limits of the greater proportion 

 of large gardens, such a number of dwarf standard trees 

 may be planted as will prove sufficient to afford a supply 

 of fruit for an ordinary family. Where, however, this is 

 not the case, it is desirable that there should be a separate 

 orchard. A situation similar to that of a garden, and the 



