PLANTING 267 



a somewhat different matter. They should, to begin with, 

 be separated from each other if they come in clumps. Next, 

 if they are large and have more than one bud, or eye, they 

 may be cut into pieces, each piece having one eye or more, 

 with as much as possible of the starchy matter. These 

 may now be planted separately. Three inches is the least 

 depth at which they should be planted, and generally four 

 is better, unless the soil is very damp. 

 Make the earth rich beneath them, cover, 

 firm, label, and mulch. 



To plant bulbs requires a somewhat 

 similar process. Bulbs should not go into 

 wet ground, and if the earth is pretty FIG. 145. Seed- 

 moist, each should be set upon a little ^planting. ' rea Y 

 bed of sand, put at the bottom of the 

 hole. The depth varies with the kind of bulb, but should 

 always be enough, in order to stiffen the stalk which is to 

 carry the heavy flower. Generally speaking, bulbs should 

 be covered to at least three times their height. Be sure to 

 set them right side up ; the bottom can be known by the scar 

 of separation from the parent. 



The setting of perennial roots should by this time be a 

 simple matter, if one has first practiced on seed, tubers, and 

 bulbs. To begin with, since the plant is to stay in the same 

 place for years, the ground should be made as rich as possible. 

 Compost, manure, and slow-yielding fertilizers, such as bone- 

 meal, should be dug into the earth to a depth of two or three 

 feet whenever possible, taking out the subsoil for the purpose, 

 and filling in with loam. The more thoroughly this is done 

 at the first, the better will be the yield, but fresh manure 

 should never be allowed to come near seed or bulb or root. 

 In this earth the root should be set at the distance to which 

 it was originally buried. This can usually be found by study- 



