FERRULES AND THEIR FITTING 143 



your mark. The excess of cement exuding from 

 between the ferrule-end and the wood is best re- 

 moved while yet hot and semi-liquid, by a circular 

 wiping stroke with a rag, or better, by turning the 

 joint against the rag; and when cold and hard, it 

 easily is chipped off with a knife-blade manipulated 

 cautiously. 



As German-silver ferrules are tempered, overheat- 

 ing directly in a flame is injurious to the metal. 



File down paper-thin the extreme ends of the 

 teeth made in serrating, as the silk-winding is to ex- 

 tend up over them onto the solid metal; and, to make 

 a " very particular job," you also may file down the 

 whole length of the outside surface of the teeth or 

 slit portions to just beyond their bases, so that the 

 silk-wrapping, at its termination on the ferrule, will 

 lie nearly or quite flush with the metal surface it butts 

 against. The shaded portions of the illustrations 

 of serrated and split ferrules represent this area of 

 superficial filing. One of the teeth or sections be- 

 tween slits will lie against each flat surface of the 

 lod-joint, except that in the case of the smaller-top 

 ferrules you may make but three serrations and have 

 a tooth lie along each alternate flat face of the rod. 



As a precaution against dampness, you may varn- 

 ish the extreme joint-ends, which receive the female 

 ferrules, before attaching the ferrules, and then 

 when applying the cement to the joint you also can 

 spread a smooth coating of this over the same place. 



