A CAPE CART JOURNEY. 



later on of looking about us for a shot now and 

 again. At dusk, after a heavy trek through deep 

 sand, we arrived at Roode Wai, where there is an 

 accommodation-house. Here we had hoped to get 

 a good wash and some clear water to drink ; but 

 alas ! we found that in this dry season (for drought 

 prevailed just then) the dam containing the water 

 supply was all but empty, and the only liquid a 

 villainous compound of mud and water far too 

 precious for bathing purposes. We had therefore 

 to content ourselves with a dry rub a miserable 

 substitute at best. 



However, we were shortly provided with a very 

 fair supper and some English bottled beer, for which 

 we paid two shillings and sixpence a bottle. 



Our friend the Boer shared the meal, and I 

 shall never forget his knife and fork play. He 

 was a huge, slouching fellow, with a shock of dull 

 light brown hair and heavy beard. His mouth 

 was simply cavernous in its proportions, and his 

 appetite what an old Cape traveller Sir J. Alexander 

 would have described as a ten-pound one. When 

 that Boer quits this earthly scene his epitaph 

 should be something like that found in a Scotch kirk- 

 yard, which ran thus, I think : 



" Here lies Jock Gordon 

 Mouth almichty and teeth accordin." 



Supper over and pipes lighted, we strolled out for 

 a quarter of an hour to see that the horses were com- 

 fortable for the night, and to have a breath of cool 

 air. The scorching wind had now fallen, and upon 

 the heights bush-clad as to their sides, grassy as to 

 their crests whereon we stood, the air was cool and 



