MAHARAJAH OF KASHMIR 29 



all round. Bless you, one might be in a provincial 

 town in the South of France ! 



There is something very reposeful and attractive 

 about it all, but it is not what I expected. Next 

 day I had a look round, and in the afternoon was 

 taken to see the Volunteer prize-giving in a 

 swampy, chilly field. I received a visit from the 

 Rajah of Tickin, who seems a cheery young man, 

 and who asked me to shoot tiger with him in 

 January. 



I called on the Maharajah of Kashmir, who 

 received me in Durbar in a large hall, elaborately 

 painted like a Turkish bath. I was made ac- 

 quainted with all his Ministers, who seem excep- 

 tionally nice, intelligent men. I also called on the 

 Rajah of Punch (pronounced Poonch), who gives 

 huge bear drives, and who has very good mahser- 

 fishing. He asked me to indulge in both, but I 

 have not time. They returned my visit the same 

 afternoon. The Maharajah of Kashmir is my age, 

 short and rather stout. I have found him most 

 pleasant and very intelligent. He arranged a 

 shoot for me in camp. 



On Friday I started for the camp, which was 

 placed in a lovely spot in the mountains, fifteen 

 miles up, all of which I had to do on a hill pony. 

 I was very tired and glad to turn into my tent 

 soon after arrival. The camp was beautifully 

 " done " and the beating, etc., admirable, but the 

 shoot was not a success. I worked like a slave for 

 three days, Saturday, Sunday, and Monday, and 

 saw nothing but one small bear cub which ran 

 about in the grass, and which I am really glad to 

 have missed. He was much too small. I was up 



