SEEING THE SIGHTS 39 



a pair of spavined and otherwise unhealthy horses, 

 and two ekkas, which are ditto with one wretched 

 pony. I loaded up my luggage, rifles, jemadar 

 (a man with a sword man and sword equally use- 

 less), and bearer i.e., valet. We did thirty miles 

 in a scorching sun and in clouds of red dust. Then 

 I got on a prancing charger and rode up the 

 mountain, sick with terror at having to leave my 

 luggage and, above all, my beloved rifles. I was 

 met by General Bier Bikram Singh near the gates 

 of Nahan, the capital of Sirmoor, and deafened 

 by salutes going off in my honour. I was very 

 tired, having ridden fourteen miles in a saddle 

 the size of a postage stamp. I then had to pay 

 my respects to the Maharajah, and attended a 

 tennis match of the two young Princes. At last 

 I retired to the " Guest-house," where I was 

 gorgeously housed and attended to by numerous 

 retainers. I had an excellent dinner alone. Next 

 day I reviewed the Sirmoor Imperial Troops, called 

 on officials, visited the foundry, and generally 

 saw sights with polite resignation. On Sunday I 

 went into camp to shoot anything that came. 

 There is but little game to be had, and yet only 

 fifty years ago wild beasts rendered it wellnigh a 

 risk to get here at all. I believe there are any 

 number of panthers, but they are very cunning and 

 rarely get shot. I hate reviews, but, sleepy as I 

 was, I had to turn out at 6 to review the Imperial 

 Service Contingent, commanded by General Bier 

 Bikram Singh. He is a very keen soldier, is a 

 Colonel in the English Army, and has fought for 

 us in two expeditions. The troops, about 500 

 men, are quite marvellous. I have seen the 



