40 THE KYBER, SIRMOOR, AND BENARES 



Guards march past no better at home. There was 

 a smart cavalry troop and a perfectly appointed 

 two-gun battery and some 500 infantry. One 

 cannot take up an illustrated paper without seeing 

 a picture of the Secretary of State in a top-hat 

 " taking the salute " at home, so I suppose I may 

 be forgiven for doing so on the top of an Indian 

 mountain. But I felt a horrible fraud on a huge 

 grey horse from Cabul and in a military saddle into 

 the bargain. Because I had been in South Africa 

 they were persuaded that I am habitually up to 

 my neck in blood. I also did the hospital, the 

 barracks and all the rest, and am quite done 

 myself. 



I was enchanted with Nahan (pronounced Narn) . 

 It is beautifully situate on the top of a mountain 

 with glorious views from every side. It is ex- 

 quisitely clean, as tidy as possible, the buildings 

 in perfect repair, and the people are happy, bright, 

 and prosperous. Even the animals seem well 

 cared for. Simla is quite squalid compared to 

 Nahan, and what I like is that there is not a 

 European in the latter place except the manager 

 of the foundry. Both the Maharajah and his 

 brother are capable, kind, enlightened men and 

 an example to many Englishmen. I am very glad 

 to have been to Sirmoor, as it is a revelation and 

 an education. It shows what intelligent, well-bred 

 Indian rulers can do if we do not interfere with 

 them. The foundry is an instance of intelligent 

 enterprise. It was started by the late Maharajah 

 and seems to be a success financially. But it is 

 a hot job going over a foundry in India ! And I 

 have seen so many in England. I was also honoured 



