42 THE KYBER, SIRMOOR, AND BENARES 



that is what I wanted. On November nth I 

 regretfully left Nahan and travelled for nine solid 

 hours, leaving at daybreak four hours on horse- 

 back and the rest in a horrible tonga. The heavy 

 work i.e., crossing rivers, climbing pathless 

 mountains, and travelling along nullahs or dry 

 water-courses we did on elephants; the rest on 

 foot or in the saddle. My elephant's name was 

 " Mr. Wellskin." He had a bad reputation for 

 temper. His worst trick was picking up a stone 

 with his trunk and smashing the head of any casual 

 passer-by with it, but I fed him on apples and 

 biscuits and we became quite fast friends. I failed 

 to get a leopard although they were round the 

 camp every night and carried off an unfortunate 

 dog, also a poor goat. I suppose I shall get one 

 in due course. 



At Lucknow I stopped long enough to call on 

 the Hewetts. I devoted some time to the ruined 

 Residency and the Baillie Gate and Guard-house. 

 I am glad to have stood by the grave of Henry 

 Lawrence, " who tried to do his duty," and in the 

 room in which he died. The ruined Residency and 

 the Baillie Gate and Guardroom are most im- 

 pressive, and it interested me greatly to go down 

 into the cellar where Nancy Brown fancied she 

 heard the bagpipes of the relieving Highlanders. 

 The graveyard is very interesting, and I was sorry 

 not to be able to devote more time to it. I have a 

 relation buried there who got the Victoria Cross 

 when a Light Dragoon subaltern. He was killed 

 at twenty-one. 



From Lucknow I went to Benares. The 

 Maharajah is a clever, friendly man, who showed 



