126 



THE POINT BARROW ESKIMO. 



made of five pieces, which covers the pubes. The crotch is reinforced 

 by a square patch of white deerskin sewed on the inside. The trim 

 ming consists of strips of edging. The first strip (Fig. 71) is 1 inches 

 wide, and runs along the front seam, inserted in the outside piece, to 

 the knee-band, beginning 5 inches from the waist. The light strips 



an; of clipped mountain sheepskin; 

 the dark one of dark brown deerskin ; 

 the pipings of the thin fawn skin, and 

 the tags of red worsted. The edges 

 of the, strip are fringed with narrow 

 double strips of mountain sheepskin 

 2 inches long, put on about 1 inches 

 apart. A straight strip, 2 inches wide, 

 is inserted obliquely across the outside 

 piece from seam to seam. It is of the 



FIG. 70. Pattern f man s invents. same materials, but differs slightly in 

 pattern. The knee-band is of the same materials and 2J inches deep. 

 The length from waist to knee is 24 inches behind, 23 in front; the 

 girth of the leg 24 inches round the thigh and 14 round the knee. 

 These represent a common style of full-dress breeches, and are worn 

 with a pair of trimmed boots held up by drawstrings 

 They are always worn with the hair out and usually 

 over a pair of deerskin drawers. The ordinary 

 breeches are of heavier deerskin, made perfectly 

 plain, being usually worn alone, with the hair turned 

 in. When a pair of under breeches is worn, however, 

 the hair of the outer ones is turned out. Trimmed 

 breeches are less common than trimmed frocks, as 

 the plain breeches when new are often worn for full 

 dress. The clean, white flesh side presents a very 

 neat appearance. The skin of the rough seal is 

 sometimes, but rarely, used for summer breeches, 

 which are worn with the hair out. With this exception, breeches seem 

 to be invariably made of deerskin. This garment is practically uni 

 versal among the Eskimo and varies very little in pattern. 



Pant-aloonx (Jciimiin). The women and children, and occasionally the, 

 men, wear pantaloons (stricly speaking), i. c., tight-fitting trousers con 

 tinuous with the foot covering. Of the two pairs of pantaloons in the 

 collection, No. 74042 [1792] (Fig. 72) will serve as the type. The shoes 

 with sealskin moccasin soles and deerskin uppers are sewed at the 

 ankles to a pair of tight-fitting deerskin trousers, reaching above the 

 hips and higher behind than in front. Pattern (diagram, Fig. 73): 

 Each leg is composed of four long pieces (front 1, outside 2, back 3, 

 and inside 4), five gussets (one on the thigh o, and four on the calf, 

 6, 6, 6, (5), which enlarges the garment to fit the swell of the calf and 

 thigh and the half- waistband (7). The two legs are put together by 



fl 



FIG. 71. Trimming 

 of man Hlnv * hcH. 



