FALLS OF NIAGARA. 89 



the theory, that the cataract of Niagara once poured its tor 

 rents over this spot, and that it has receded to its present 

 position, seven miles distant, by the gradual wearing of the 

 rock. The soil from Lewistown, along the river, is inferior, 

 bearing bad crops. 



On reaching the village of Manchester, situated on the 

 rapids of the river, we instantly sallied forth to view the Falls 

 of Niagara, which I had long considered the most wonderful 

 sight in the world. A remarkable and fragile-looking bridge 

 leads across the rapids to Goat island, and w r e soon stood on 

 what is termed the American falls, formed by that part of the 

 river passing on the south side of the island. 



I know not whether it was owing to unreasonable expecta 

 tions, or the magnitude and sublimity of the object, that I 

 felt disappointed on first viewing the falls. Instead of being 

 riveted to the spot in breathless agitation, and soul-thrilling 

 delight, a feeling of uneasiness stole over me, from which 

 I sought relief by culling a variety of plants from the edge of 

 the cataract. But every sight afforded additional pleasure, and 

 hours flitted away in gazing on their endless beauties. 



On returning to the hotel, a large and good establishment, 

 numerous visitors of the falls had assembled for dinner, to 

 which they did justice, thinking, perhaps, the grosser senses 

 entitled in turn to gratification. Guests are not expected to 

 carve, waiters either doing so, or carrying dishes to those 

 wishing to help themselves. The numerous company induced 

 me to cut up a joint, and having served a dozen of individuals, I 

 was about to help myself, when the fragments were expeditious- 

 ly carried off and placed before a gentleman at the extremity 

 of the table. Amused at the way I had been treated, I re 

 solved to involve a companion in the disappointment, by ask 

 ing him to help me to mutton. He complied, and no other 

 person was so honoured during his tour. Foreigners may 

 well be excused carving, their utmost exertions being required 

 to finish meals with the natives. 



Immediately after dinner we set out for the Pavilion House, 

 a celebrated hotel in Canada, a porter conveying our luggage 

 in a barrow to the ferry, which we reached by descending a 

 wooden spiral staircase. The river is 1 200 yards broad. The 



