310 THE MOUNTAINS OF CALIFORNIA 



the lower branches of the pines and poplars, al 

 lowed a near approach, as if curious to see me. 

 Farther on, a broad-shouldered wildcat showed 

 himself, coming out of a grove, and crossing the 

 river on a flood- jamb of logs, halting for a moment 

 to look back. The bird-like tamias frisked about 

 my feet everywhere among the pine-needles and 

 seedy grass-tufts ; cranes waded the shallows of the 

 river-bends, the kingfisher rattled from perch to 

 perch, and the blessed ouzel sang amid the spray 

 of every cascade. Where may lonely wanderer 

 find a more interesting family of mountain-dwell 

 ers, earth-born companions and fellow-mortals I 

 It was afternoon when I joined them, and the glo 

 rious landscape began to fade in the gloaming be 

 fore I awoke from their enchantment. Then I 

 sought a camp-ground on the river-bank, made a 

 cupful of tea, and lay down to sleep on a smooth 

 place among the yellow leaves of an aspen grove. 

 Next day I discovered yet grander landscapes and 

 grander life. Following the river over huge, swell 

 ing rock-bosses through a majestic canon, and past 

 innumerable cascades, the scenery in general be 

 came gradually wilder and more alpine. The Su 

 gar Pine and Silver Firs gave place to the hardier 

 Cedar and Hemlock Spruce. The canon walls be 

 came more rugged and bare, and gentians and arc 

 tic daisies became more abundant in the gardens 

 and strips of meadow along the streams. Toward 

 the middle of the afternoon I came to another val 

 ley, strikingly wild and original in all its features, 

 and perhaps never before touched by human foot. 

 As regards area of level bottom-land, it is one of 



