THE FLORISTS MANUAL. 



20J 



shrub or tree. In these 4,000 plants 

 there were many fine varieties. All 

 hybrid perpetual roses are beautiful if 

 treated as they deserve. 



After a rose is well established there 

 is not much use in strawing up the tops 

 (you need to cut them quite -severely 

 every year if you want good flowers), 

 but four or five inches of stable manure 

 laid around the roots is a great help to 

 them, and it need not be done till the 

 end of November. 



Among the hybrid perpetual roses 

 that do well on their own roots are: 

 Gen. Jacqueminot, crimson; Ulrieh 

 Brunner, deep pink; Mme. Laffay, red; 

 Alfred Colomb, cherry red; Anna 

 Alexieff, rose; Baron de Bonstettiu, 

 very dark crimson; Clio, blush; Coun 

 tess of Oxford, carmine; Duke of Ed 

 inburgh, crimson maroon ; John Hop 

 per, bright rose; Mme. Gabriel Luizet, 

 fine pink ; Marshall P. Wilder, cherry 

 rose; Mrs. Laxton, velvety red; Presi 

 dent Thiers, large red; Roger Lambe- 

 lin, crimson, edges of petals white; Sir 

 Garnet Wolsley, bright red. There are 

 many other fine varieties but this list 

 contains some splendid sorts. 



Among the finest of those that do 

 better when budded on the Manetti or 

 briar stocks are: Baroness Eothschild, 

 a beautiful light pink; Captain Christy, 

 flesh pink; Fisher Holmes, dark crim 

 son; Mabel Morrison, fine white; Mar 

 garet Dickson, white with pale pink 

 center; Marie Baumann, crimson; 

 Magna Charta, dark pink, very fine; 

 Paul Neyron, dark pink, immense size; 

 Prince Camille de Rohan, crimson ma 

 roon. In this short list will be found 

 some of the finest roses in cultivation. 



Hybrid perpetual roses can be propa 

 gated as follows, and this includes the 

 hardy climbers or any of the deciduous 

 kinds. When the current year s growth 

 is about in that condition that the flower 

 is fully developed it is called about half 

 ripe. This is usually about the middle of 

 June. Prepare a frame in which you 

 have trodden in eighteen inches or two 

 feet of stable manure; in fact make a 

 mild hotbed with the slope facing north. 

 Put three inches of soil on the manure 

 and on that two inches of sand, and in 

 sert your cuttings. Two eyes are enough, 

 one above and one below the surface of 

 the sand. Keep the sand moist and as 

 cool as possible by shading, letting in 

 only air enough to prevent too much 

 moisture. By degrees they will endure 

 more air, and in three or four weeks 

 will be well rooted and can be soon 

 potted into 2% -inch or 3-inch pots and 

 stood in a coldframe, but they must be 

 carefully watered and shaded till they 

 get hold of the soil. These plants could 

 be planted out the following October, 

 &quot;but I would prefer to keep them plunged 

 in a coldframe and planted out the 

 following April, when they will make 

 fine plants. 



Another plan is by using the dormant 

 wood in the fall. Before very hard 

 frost, say in the middle of November, 

 cut off the well-ripened growths of 

 the previous summer and cut them into 

 lengths of two or three eyes. Tie them 

 in bunches of twenty-five or fifty, wrap 



some moist sphagnum around the ends, 

 and store these bunches away in flats 

 under a bench in a cool house. In two 

 months the ends will be well calloused, 

 and then they can be placed in a few 

 inches of sand that is a little warmer 

 than the house, and 50 degrees for the 

 house will do well. They will soon root 

 and can be potted off and grown on 

 to be planted out in April or May. 

 Always remember that although these 

 roses are hardy, any growth that is 

 made under glass is tender and will 

 not stand a frost, so they should not 



Pillar Rose. 



go out till danger of frost is past. This 

 is the simplest and surest way of propa 

 gating any of the deciduous roses. 



Forcing Hybrid Perpetuals. 



Since the American Beauty has been 

 grown in such quantity there are much 

 fewer of the hybrid perpetual roses 

 grown for their flowers, but they are 

 wanted in pots, and such sorts as Jacque 

 minot, Brunner, Magna Charta, Anna de 

 Diesbach, Baroness Rothschild and Mme. 

 Gabriel Luizet force well, and if prop 

 erly prepared make fine pot plants, or 

 their blooms can be cut. The fall im 

 portations of these roses are not satis 

 factory for this purpose. The long 

 journey and the length of time is a 



poor preparation for spring forcing, so 

 strong plants with good stems should 

 be obtained of our American nursery 

 men. 



You will receive these home-grown 

 plants from your nurseryman in the first 

 part of November, and should get them 

 into their pots without delay. If the 

 roots are dried it is a good plan to 

 puddle them. This is a nurseryman s 

 word and practice, which is dipping the 

 roots in a tub of water to which has 

 been added enough loam or clay to make 

 what may be called liquid mud. This 

 covers every particle of root and fibre 

 and keeps them moist for a long time 

 or till you can surround the roots with 

 moist ground. 



Unless the growths of the roses when 

 received are long and straggling they 

 should not be pruned at the time of pot 

 ting. The pruning will come later. The 

 ends of the roots if mutilated or long and 

 spindling can be cut back with advan 

 tage. A good, strong rose will need a 

 6-inch pot, a few may go into a 5-inch 

 and extra strong into a 7-inch. Such 

 soil as described for the beds would be 

 ideal, but any good loam with a fourth 

 of manure will do. Pot quite firmly so 

 that every root is firmly surrounded with 

 soil. When all are potted give them 

 enough water to penetrate every particle 

 of soil, and when that is soaked away 

 and the soil in the pots is moderately 

 firm, choose a level piece of ground in 

 the garden where surface water will 

 never stand. Begin at one end of what 

 we will call the bed and lay on their 

 sides a row of the roses with their tops 

 lying flat on the ground. Then behind 

 the first row of pots place another row 

 with their pots as close as convenient 

 to the first row, with their tops over the 

 first row, and so on till you have filled 

 the space allotted. Now if the ground 

 on which these roses are laid is a friable 

 or sandy loam all that is to be done is 

 to dig up enough from each side of the 

 bed to cover the roses four inches deep. 

 Cover pots and tops thoroughly. If 

 you should be in a latitude where the 

 whole mass will freeze up tight it would 

 make the getting out of the roses awk 

 ward and might crack many of the pots, 

 so we have to cover with strawy manure 

 or leaves after an inch or two of frost 

 has penetrated the beds, to keep out 

 severe freezing. In bringing these plants 

 in you will find the wood fresh and 

 plump, and in much better order than 

 had they been in a coldframe subject 

 to great changes of temperature and 

 neglect. 



The time to bring in these roses to 

 begin forcing will, of course, depend 

 on the time you want them in flower. 

 In another place I have mentioned why 

 these freshly potted roses cannot be 

 forced satisfactorily before Easter, so 

 the date of Easter will be your guide. 

 The latter half of January will be time. 

 One thing is sure, a hybrid perpetual 

 rose that is brought along in a tempera 

 ture of 55 degrees is much superior in 

 every quality to one that is hurried for 

 two or three weeks at 65 degrees. With 

 in a day or so of their being in the 

 greenhouse is the time for doing the 



