286 A JOURNEY IN BRAZIL. 



of the world. It is true, that we had neither ices nor 

 champagne, the former being of course difficult to obtain 

 in this climate ; but these two exceptions were more than 

 compensated for by the presence of tropical fruits not 

 to be had elsewhere at any price, enormous Pineapples, 

 green and purple Abacatys (alligator pears), crimson Pi- 

 taugas, Attas (fruta do Conde), Abios, Sapotis, Bananas 

 i of the choicest kinds and in the greatest profusion, and a 

 \ variety of Maracujas (the fruit of the passion-flower).* 



The breakfast was gay, the toasts were numerous, the 

 speeches animated, and long after the Senhoras had left the 

 table the room still echoed with Vivas, as health followed 

 health. At the close of the dinner there was a little 

 scene which struck us as very pretty ; I do not know 

 whether it is a custom here, but, as. it excited no remark, 

 I suppose it may be. When the gentlemen returned to the 

 house, bringing the music with them, all the waiters assem 

 bled in line before the door, decanter and glass in hand, to 

 finish the remains of the wine with a toast on their own 

 account. The head-waiter then stood in front of them 

 and gave the health, first, of the persons for whom the 

 banquet was given, followed by that of the President, 

 all of which were answered with Vivas as they filled their 

 glasses. Then one of the gentlemen stepping forward gave, 

 amid shouts of laughter, the health of the head-waiter 



* As I do not wish to mislead, and this narrative may perhaps influence 

 some one to make a journey in this region, I should add, that, while the above 

 is strictly true, there are many things essential to the comfort of the traveller 

 not to he had. There is not a decent hotel throughout the whole length of the 

 Amazons, and any one who thinks of travelling there must provide himself 

 with such letters as will secure accommodation in private houses. So recom 

 mended, he may safely depend upon hospitality, or upon such assistance from 

 individuals as will enable him to find a private lodging. 



