80 THE YOUNG FARMER'S MANUAL. 



est and most convenient way to bore caps. (See BORING MA 

 CHINE, Fig. 122.) 



BUNK AND CAP FENCE. 



91. Figure 20 represents a bunk for fence, similar to stake 

 and cap fence, with the exception that the stakes are set in a 

 block about four feet in length, instead of in the ground. These 

 blocks may be as large as one man can jn IG> 20. 

 handle, or they may be small as a rail of 



the largest size. The larger they are 

 the more substantial the fence will be. 

 The holes for the stakes should not be 

 less than three inches in diameter, and 

 should be bored entirely through the 

 pieces, in order to allow water to work 

 out at the bottom. "When a stake is a 

 little too small, it may be made tight by 

 a wedge on one side of it. This kind of 

 fence may be straight or zigzag, and all the advantage it pos 

 sesses over other stake fences is, it can be removed more easily. 

 It requires more timber and time to make it, and is not worthy 

 of adoption generally, excepting in localities where stakes cannot 

 be driven in the ground. "When this kind of fence is made 

 straight, the ends of the rails in the bunks may lie side by side, 

 or one above the other. When they lay side by side, pieces of 

 rails must be sawed just long enough to lie between the stakes, 

 for the purpose of raising the next tier of rails several inches. 

 "When this mode is adopted it will require as many short pieces 

 as there are rails to carry it up to the caps. This fence possesses 

 one good quality over a stake fence it will not be lifted by the 

 frost, and is more easily kept erect. 



STRAIGHT RAIL FENCE. 



92. Figure 21 shows a section of a rail fence, built with the 

 rails in a straight line. The stakes are first set just far enough 

 asunder to receive a rail of medium size. Then turn two furrows 



HUXX FOR KAIL FENCK. 



