THE YOUNG FARMER'S MANUAL. 



113 



all out with a pattern, and cutting them with a circular horse 

 saw. 



THE RIB FENCE. 



133. Fig. 39 represents a kind of fence which suits the fancy 

 of some men better than any other style of fence. The posts 

 are about five or six inches F I( J. 39. 



square, and three-inch holes 

 bored in the sides, two inches / 

 deep, for the ribs. The ribs 

 are about two and a half 

 inches square. They may 

 enter the posts by mortise 

 and tenon, although that 

 style increases the labor of 

 making it. The ribs, if 

 square, should be put in as 

 shown in the cut, with one 

 corner upwards and one 



downwards, as they will make less space between them than if 

 they were placed with a flat side up. The ribs should be about 

 eight feet long, and with the corners cut off a little the ends will 

 enter a three-inch hole. (See BORING POSTS WITH BORING MA 

 CHINE, Fig. 122.) 



134. By adjusting a three-inch auger by the side of a railway 

 horse-power, so as to make about as many revolutions in a minute 

 as the band wheel, with one horse a man could bore a large lot 

 of posts in a few hours. And as the ribs are put up when the 

 posts are set, one workman would be able to put up a long string 

 of it in a day. A line should be stretched, when setting the 

 posts, parallel with the top rib, so that one panel will not pitch 

 clown nor slant up too much. "When the ribs are put in place 

 the ends should be well painted. This is a very economical and 

 substantial fence, requiring no nails, pins, nor wir-e.s. Should ^ 

 rail or rib get broken at the middle of a fence, dig one post loosq 

 on one side of it, and lean it to one side of the fence and put ii} 

 a new rib, and then set it up and fasten the post in its former 



