THE YOUNG FARMER'S MANUAL. 347 



is readily taken apart. The draft-chains need not be heavy 

 chains ; and one end of them is attached to an eye-bolt, which 

 is put through the centre-pieces. 



484. Harrows similar to this are manufactured all over the 

 country, with iron bars bolted across all the sticks where the slats 

 are placed, with hinges at one end of them. But that mode of 

 hinges increases the expense, and they are not as strong as they 

 would be if made in this manner, because in this style the draft 

 is on the centre-pieces, while the hinges are put through them ; 

 whereas, in the common style the draft is at the hinges, which are 

 bolted with small bolts to the wood. A carriage-bolt should be 

 put through the pieces at every tooth, to keep them from split 

 ting. 



485. In order to get the wings at the proper angle, strike two 

 chalk-lines on the floor at a right angle, and measure three feet 

 one way from the corner, and two feet and one inch on the other 

 line, and strike a diagonal line, which will give the desired angle. 



486. Always have the teeth extend below the wood not less 

 than eight inches, and have them even on the points. The 

 longer they are the less liable they are to clog. A harrow 

 should be supported on the points of the teeth, and not by the 

 frame. 



487. Fig. 144 represents one of the very best styles of harrows 

 for pulverizing any kind of soil, 



and especially sod ground. It 

 will pulverize sod ground more 

 with one harrowing than two 

 harrowings with a common har 

 row. It will not clog, nor tear 



up manure that has been plowed COULTER HARROW. 



under, nor turn over sods, even when it is drawn across them. It 

 draws easier than a common harrow, and I know it to be a most 

 useful implement. It is manufactured by Pease and Egglestone, 

 Albany, N. Y. 



488. The frame of it is made similar to a common harrow, of 

 timber two by six inches square. The coulter teeth c are thin 



