46 



To smooth down the "gathers" in the sole seam, the kd'lutuk 

 or boot creaser is used. The arm is placed in the boot leg and 

 the hand brought against the gathers inside, which are smoothed 

 down by outward pressure of the kd'lutuk. 



When making boots in a hurry on the trail, a double stitch, 

 like overedging, is used instead of the triple stitch, or a false 

 bottom is put on with a "whip" stitch. 



In making the long hip boots, the seam is behind in the leg 

 of the boot instead of in front, to keep out the wet at the knee. 

 Winter boots are made by the same process, except that the 

 Harp seal skins are used for the sole. The Ranger seal is a 

 common material in southern Labrador, and is much prized on 

 account of its beautiful appearance, but it is said to be less warm 

 than the common seal. For the soles of the boots, the hides of 

 the Bearded seal (u~djuk) are preferred, on account of their 

 thickness and wearing qualities. Harp seal skins are used when 

 the Bearded seal cannot be obtained. 



The sinew used in sewing is from the back tendon of the 

 deer. It forms a regular article of trade with the Hudson's Bay 

 Company. The Eskimo of southern Labrador call it i'vilu. In 

 default of sinew, they use the "wisen" 1 of the seal. This is 

 called i'giak. It is not so strong as the sinew. 



Vamps. 



An inside slipper, made of sealskin, reindeer, or duffle, is 

 used inside the boot. The slipper is cut out in one piece (see 

 Figure 2, No. 1); the sides and fronts are folded together and 

 sewed (a), then the back strip and two portions left of the sides 

 are brought together and stitched, forming the heel (c and b). 

 Lastly, the bottom of the heel is sewed to the upper heel formed 

 by the last operation. 



The "herringbone" stitch is used throughout. The edge 

 of the top is left plain or overedged with worsted or fur. Occa- 



1 According to Dr. Hutton, a former Moravian missionary at Okkak, this substitute for 

 sinew thread is cut from the tissue of the neck of the seal. After the tissue has been cut out, 

 it is laid on the floor and split into thin strips, which are chewed and stretched into thread. 

 This thread is said to be even stronger than catgut, or cobbler's thread, which It somewhat 

 resembles in appearance. 



