PRUNING SHADE TREES 147 



cutting off larger limbs, the first sawing should be from 

 the under side, at a distance of 10 or 12 inches from 

 the base of the limb. This cut should extend about half 

 way through or until the saw pinches too badly. This 

 should be followed by a cut from the upper side, a few 

 inches farther out. The under cut prevents the split, 

 which is bound to occur when the limb falls, from running 

 back to the base of the limb and tearing the bark at the 

 juncture with the parent stem. After the limb has been 

 removed in this way, the -stub may be sawed off at the 

 trunk or parent stem without danger of splitting. In 

 the case of a very large limb, the part to be removed should 

 be supported from above by the use of ropes to prevent 

 it from falling and doing damage to branches beneath. 



Pruning may be done at almost any season, except 

 when the sap is running in the spring. To prune in the 

 spring will result in "bleeding," or loss of sap. This is 

 never fatal and it is questionable if it is often seriously 

 injurious, except to the nerves of sympathetic observers. 

 The most rapid healing will probably take place following 

 late spring or early summer pruning, when the tree is in 

 full growth. The slowest healing probably takes place 

 following August cuts. Fall or winter are favorable 

 seasons because of the absence of foliage, which gives a 

 perfect view of the inner branches of the tree's framework, 

 and because, being a relatively leisure time, the work might 

 be more thoroughly and carefully done. 



The tools required for pruning increase in number with 

 the growth of the tree. For the first pruning a sharp 

 knife is the one tool necessary, and is best whenever it can 

 be used. In subsequent work a pair of pruning shears will 

 be found useful. Many of these shears have a single blade 

 which works against a shoulder applied to the branch. 

 The pressure of the shoulder to the branch should always 



