Salzburg. 295 



Munich were so early that the opera ended almost at 

 the time it began in London. 



In the spring we went to Salzburg, where we re- 

 mained all summer. We had an apartment in a 

 dilapidated old chateau, about an hour's walk from 

 the town, called Leopold's Krone. The picturesque 

 situation of the town reminded me of the Castle and 

 Old Town of Edinburgh. The view from our windows 

 was alpine, and the trees bordering the roads were 

 such as I have rarely seen out of England. We made 

 many excursions to Berchtesgaden, where King 

 Louis and his court were then living, and went to 

 the upper end of the Konigsee. I have repeatedly 

 been at sea in very stormy weather without the 

 smallest idea of fear ; but the black, deep water of 

 this lake, under the shadow of the precipitous 

 mountains, made a disagreeable impression on me. 

 I thought if I were to be drowned I should prefer 

 the blue sea to that cold, black pool. The flora 

 was lovely, and on returning from our expeditions 

 in the evening, the damp, mossy banks were 

 luminous with glowworms : I never saw so many, 

 either before or since. We never fail to make ac- 

 quaintances wherever we go, and our friends at 

 Munich had given us letters to various people who 

 were passing the summer there, many of whom 

 had evening receptions once a week. At the 



