450 THE CHEMISTRY OF CREATION. 



found in the hollows between the waves and on 

 their anterior slopes. The true secondary waves 

 are now seen heaving their curling summits far 

 and wide over the agitated surface. Beginning 

 at about an inch of amplitude, and two inches 

 in length, they enlarge their dimensions, unite 

 with other waves, are now and then adorned 

 with a crest of foain, and the surface now pre- 

 sents the regular appearance of a stormy sea, 

 the waves being of nearly uniform magnitude. 



When these waves are now impelled by the 

 wind against the shelving coast, they break on 

 the margin of the shoal, and they continue to 

 roll along in the shallow water towards the 

 beach, and becoming transformed into waves of 

 the first order, that is, waves of translation, 

 finally break on the shore. What a beautiful 

 scheme of harmony and order is ours, when we 

 find that from the first movement of a ripple 

 to that of the great waves which thunder upon 

 the coast in elemental power, all these move- 

 ments of the water are determinate and obedient 

 to certain laws ! 



From what has been said as to the cause of 

 movements of this kind in water, it will be 

 evident that could we in any way diminish or 

 annihilate the adhesion or friction between the 

 surface and the current of air which impels it 

 into motion, the movements would in a great 

 measure cease. This can be effected by means 



